Contents

Introduction

Know Your Boat

The Basics

The hull

Sails

Rigging

Rudder

Knots

Figure-of-eight

Reef knot

Round turn and two half hitches

Clove hitch

Bowline

Your Sailing Environment and Safety

Introduction

Buoyancy aids

Winds

Tides

Boat condition

Clothing

Beware of the sun

Other safety matters

Rules of the Road

Why have rules?

Avoid a collision

Who has priority?

Sail versus power

Points of sailing

Rigging

Introduction

Bermuda rig

Unstayed mast

Rudder

De-rigging

Reefing

Introduction

Points of Sailing

What is a point of sailing?

How a sail works

No go zone

Close-hauled

Reaching

Running

Key Factors

Introduction

Factor one: Wind awareness

Factor two: Sail setting

Factor three: Boat balance

Factor four: Boat trim

Factor five: Course sailed

Factor six: Centreboard position

Beach Launching and Recovery

Beach launching

Beach recovery

Pontoon Launching and Recovery

First steps

Launching

Pontoon recovery

Your First Sail (basic controls)

What roles do people have aboard?

Understanding how to adjust the sails

Steering the boat

Turning around

How to Tack

Tacking: an introduction

Establish a close-hauled point of sailing

Tacking a single person dinghy

Tacking a two person dinghy

Capsize and Recovery

Introduction

Single person capsize

Two person capsize

How to Gybe

Gybing: an introduction

Establish a training run

Gybing a single person dinghy

Gybing a two person dinghy

Asymmetric Spinnaker

Rigging the sail

How to launch the sail

How to gybe with a spinnaker

Lowering the sail

What to do when it is windy

Capsizing with a spinnaker

Glossary

This book has been created using content from our website www.sailaboat.tv and is a collaborative effort of lots of people. I would like to thank the partners of Sailaboat Penny King and Nigel Palmer for their drive and vision to get the project off the ground in the first place.

Thanks also to my wife Fay for her enthusiasm and encouragement for all the times I was busy writing, filming and editing.

For the images in the book, thanks go to Tash Jones of Tympani Productions and Simon Vacher for his graphic design.

Thanks also to Evette Tyler Hore for some of the still images.

Thanks to the Laser Centre in Portland for hosting us for the filming period and in particular Hannah Burywood and Pete Ollerenshaw for being such good sports and putting up with days of filming for the video, it is them who you see in most of the pictures.

Thanks also to Littleton Sailing Club who accommodated us for some of the filming and to Laura Glover and Phil Lewis who also appear mainly in the spinnaker chapter.

Also thanks to the club members at Littleton and at Stokes Bay for being photographed.

Thanks to the team at Wiley for their input and also to Maggie Aldred for the layout.

I would finally like to thank my parents Liz and John for introducing me to the wonderful sport of sailing all those years ago and for encouraging me as a photographer.

Above all thanks to you for buying the book and I really hope that it helps you to learn how to sail

This edition first published 2012

© 2012 Tim Hore

All pictures used in this book have been taken by, and belong to, Tim Hore

Registered office

John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex, PO19 8SQ, United Kingdom

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For details of our global editorial offices, for customer services and for information about how to apply for permission to reuse the copyright material in this book please see our website at www.wiley.com.

The right of the author to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the UK Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except as permitted by the UK Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, without the prior permission of the publisher.

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Hore, Tim.

Learn to sail: the simpliest way to start sailing / Tim Hore.

p. cm.

ISBN 978-1-119-95276-3 (pbk.); ISBN: 978-1-119-95491-0 (ebk)

ISBN: 978-1-119-95493-4 (ebk) ISBN: 978-1-119-95492-7 (ebk)

1. Sailing—Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Sailboats—Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Title.

GV811.H624 2012

797.124—dc23

2011049850

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Wiley Nautical – sharing your passion.

At Wiley Nautical we’re passionate about anything that happens in, on or around the water.

Wiley Nautical used to be called Fernhurst Books and was founded by a national and European sailing champion. Our authors are the leading names in their fields with Olympic gold medals around their necks and thousands of sea miles in their wake. Wiley Nautical is still run by people with a love of sailing,

Introduction

Dinghy sailing is the most popular and best way to learn how to sail. It teaches you skills that can then be applied to yacht sailing, windsurfing or even kite surfing. With so many designs available, there is a dinghy to suit everyone’s needs, from stable boats for beginners to high performance machines for serious racers.

Sailing is a fantastic sport. Understanding where the wind is blowing from and realising how to harness this power is all absorbing and totally exhilarating. I have been a keen sailor since the age of 14, sailing dinghies, windsurfers and offshore yachts. I am a qualified RYA Senior Dinghy Instructor and regularly teach people of all ages to sail. My approach is always to help them enjoy the sport of sailing and my passion is for them to have fun.

Learn to Sail is the perfect partner either for anyone new to dinghy sailing or for those looking to refresh their sailing techniques. Step-by-step instructions explain the basic skills of sailing a single- or two-person dinghy. You’ll be guided through each stage of the learning process, starting with what you need to know prior to setting out on the water and how to stay safe on the water.

Many of the photographs are taken from remote onboard cameras, including one at the top of the mast, to provide unique and highly instructive images. You can also go online to watch free video demonstrations showing you how to put the theory into practice – view them at www.wileynautical.com/learntosail. You can purchase full length instructional videos at www.sailaboat.tv

I hope you enjoy reading the book and, better still, become a keen sailor.

Sailing is a wonderful sport and open to all. For the purposes of this book we have had to use the terms “helmsman” and “he” throughout, but when reading this please interpret this as meaning either male or female.

KNOW YOUR BOAT

In this chapter you will learn the terminology used in sailing, as well as the names for the parts of your boat, sails and rigging

The Basics

Looking at a plan view of the hull, the left-hand side of the boat is called the port side and the right-hand side the starboard side. The front of the boat is called the bow and the rear is the stern or transom. Anything that happens ahead of the direction of travel is called ahead, and behind the boat is called astern. The wind will push the boom to one side of the boat or the other – the side of the boat under the boom is called the leeward side, while the side of the boat opposite the boom is called the windward side. The leeward and windward sides of the boat will change, depending on the wind direction in relation to the boat’s course (see the points of sailing chapter on page 95), but all the other descriptions mentioned above will always remain the same.

Points of view from the dinghy

Helmsman holds tiller and mainsheet in dagger grip

The person steering the boat is called the helmsman, but when we use this term it applies to both male and female. The helmsman steers the boat by holding the tiller extension across and in front of his body with one hand, and the mainsheet in the other hand. This is called the dagger grip and allows him to control the mainsail and rudder easily. In a two person dinghy the second person is called the crew.

Tiller extension is held in back hand and mainsheet in front hand

This person controls the headsail called the jib and, if fitted, the spinnaker.

In a two person boat the second person is called crew

Both the helm and the crew sit in an area called the cockpit, which is from where they operate the boat. To help them lean out and balance the boat, they can hook their feet underneath the toe straps, which are webbing straps securely fixed to the inside floor of the cockpit.

Helm and crew work as a team

TOP TIP

The unit of measurement for all things nautical is the knot, and one knot is 1.15 miles or 1.85 kilometres per hour.

They can use toe straps to lean out to balance the boat

Toe straps are strong straps designed to carry your weight

Boats come in various shapes, sizes and construction to suit different crew weights, aspirations and sailing environments. The hull can be made from wood, fibreglass or hard wearing durable plastic so, depending on what type of sailing you plan to do, there will always be an appropriate boat for you. Rather than dashing out and buying the first boat you see, it is much better to try as many different types as possible to ensure that you purchase the best one for your needs. Sailing centres offer great advice and choice, while sailing clubs are also a good place for information and some even provide boats for hire. For your first boat, perhaps consider a second-hand one – again your sailing centre or club can advise you on where to look.

Sailing has many levels. . . literally. . . is he sailing or flying?!

Dinghies come in different shapes, sizes and construction

Boats are also made of durable plastic

Every boat has the same basic components, although variations apply from boat to boat. These components are the hull, the spars, which consist of the mast and boom and are generally made of aluminium, the sails and finally the rudder assembly.

Two person boats have two sails

To help with manoeuvring ashore you should use a launching trolley. The trolley supports the boat well when on shore and has large soft wheels that are designed to go in the water and make launching easier. The rope used to tie the boat to the trolley is called the painter. The painter can also be used when launching to tie the dinghy to a pontoon.

Single person boats are simpler in layout

To tow your boat on the road you will need a road trailer. The launching trolley usually forms part of this configuration. You should avoid putting road trailers in the water as this can corrode the brakes and suspension.

Launching trolleys make manoeuvring ashore easy

The hull

In the middle of the boat you will have a centreboard, which either pivots and retracts around a pin, or slides up and down, in which case it is called a daggerboard. The centreboard is used to reduce the sideways force that the wind exerts on the sails and will therefore stop the boat slipping sideways. The points of sailing chapter on page 95 has more information on this.

Centreboards can pivot up . . .

Your boat should have at least two buoyancy tanks to keep you afloat. They are designed in such a way that, should one become holed, the boat will still float. The buoyancy tanks form the main body of the hull that you sit on, with an additional tank at the bow of the boat. A seat that runs sideways across the boat is called a thwart. The upper outside edge of the hull is called the gunwale.

. . . and down around a central pin

Or slide up . . .

. . . and down. In this case they are called daggerboards

Boats have inbuilt buoyancy in the design

Drainage holes are fitted at the back of the boat to allow you to drain any water that may collect in the buoyancy tanks while sailing. These holes are sealed with bungs, which must be fitted before you go afloat. The boat won’t sink if you don’t fit the bungs, but it will significantly fill with water and be very difficult to steer.

Always check the drainage bungs are fitted before going afloat

After sailing, when the boat is back ashore, raise the bow and remove the bungs to check for water draining out. If more than half a litre of water drains out, you should get the boat checked by a repair specialist as this indicates that there is a leak somewhere which should be fixed.

Self bailers drain the boat when enough forward speed is maintained

Some cockpits drain automatically when the boat is filled with water from either a capsize or near capsize. Boats that do not have an open stern or transom may be fitted with self-bailers. These are built into the hull and, when opened and pushed down, rely on the forward motion of the boat to drain the water out.

The ropes used to pull any sail in or out are called sheets. You will have a mainsheet to control the mainsail.

Control sheets are used to pull sails in and out

In a two person dinghy you will have a jib sheet to control the jib, and a spinnaker sheet to control the spinnaker.

The mainsheet will have a pulley system allowing the helmsman to adjust the mainsail easily when it is under load. The pulleys are either at the end of the boom or in the centre of the cockpit and are called the mainsheet falls.

Sail control lines

All further ropes on board used to control other aspects of the sail or other fixtures are generically called control lines. These are held in place with fixtures called fairleads. A fairlead can either be a pulley or a non-moving captive fixing such as a ring or hook and is used to guide a rope as well as prevent it from chafing. Always tie a stopper knot in the end of all control lines to prevent them running free.

Jib sheet controls the jib

Mainsheet controls the mainsail. This can come in different configurations

Holding on to a fully powered sail can be hard work so to help with this a jam cleat can be used. Jam cleats come in different configurations but all do the same thing, allowing you to lock a particular control line.

A jam cleat secures a sheet under tension and makes it easier to use. Always tie a stopper knot in the end of the rope

Pulleys fixed to deck are called fairleads

TOP TIP

The helmsman must always hold the mainsheet when sailing, even if it is held in place with the mainsheet jammer. He must be able to quickly release the sail in the event of a gust to prevent an unwelcome capsize.

The mainsheet can have its own jam cleat integrated in one unit

Always hold the mainsheet so you can free the sail in the event of a gust

Sails

Single person dinghies have one sail while two person dinghies have two or sometimes three sails. Sail cloth is a man made fabric that is reasonably hard wearing yet flexible enough to allow it to take the shape of a wing when set correctly. Air travelling at different speeds on each side of the sail generates lift, consequently driving the boat through the water.

Single person boats have one sail

The big sail (and only one on a single person dinghy) is called the mainsail. A two person boat will have an additional smaller sail at the front of the boat. This sail is called the jib.

Most sails are triangular in shape

Sails are generally triangular in shape with three corners and rigged with the narrow part of the triangle at the top. Regardless of which sail it is, the corners all have the same description. The top of the sail is called the head, the front bottom corner is called the tack and the other corner is called the clew. The leading edge of the sail is called the luff, the trailing edge is called the leech, and the bottom edge is called the foot.

To stop the leech of the mainsail from flapping while you are sailing, sail battens are inserted into pockets along its length.

Two person boats may also be fitted with a spinnaker. This is a large sail made of a very lightweight cloth that can only be used when the boat is sailing across or away from the direction the wind is blowing from. This sail will introduce a whole new dimension of fun to your sailing and is launched from a chute, controlled by the crew and supported with a retractable bowsprit. (See the asymmetric spinnaker chapter on page 229 for a detailed explanation of this sail).

Sail battens usually inserted into the mainsail help the sail to hold its shape

Spinnaker sailing

TOP TIP

The spinnaker is easy to rig upside down. To ensure you rig the sail the right way up, use a permanent pen to write HEAD on the top corner of the sail and TACK on the lower corner of the sail that connects to the bow.

Telltales are small strips of fabric that are stuck on both sides of the sail and positioned towards the front edge or luff of the sail. These are there to help you when sail setting. When set correctly they stream horizontally, when the sail is set incorrectly they flutter violently.

Telltales help to identify how to set the sail

On single person boats telltales are found on the leading edge of the mainsail, while on two person boats they are mostly fitted to the jib.

Telltales will react before the sail flutters so the amount of sail control or course alteration required to set the telltales is often subtle.

Masthead burgees indicate wind direction

When sailing close-hauled, you pull the sails in tight and steer the boat to make the telltales stream evenly. If you are too close to the no go zone (see page 98) the inner telltales will stall (ie, point upwards and flutter significantly), so bear away from the wind just a little. If the outer telltales are stalled (ie, they hang downwards), then point the bow of the boat (ie, luff up) towards the no go zone until the telltales stream evenly.

On any other point of sail, if the inner telltale is stalled then pull the sail in and if the outer one is stalled then release the sail.

Flags ashore also indicate wind direction

To help identify where the wind is blowing from when sailing, you may also have a flag at the top of your mast. This is called a burgee and the tip points towards the wind. If you have one, keep an eye on it at all times to develop your wind awareness.

Flapping sails work like a flag and indicate where the wind is blowing from

Sails are both your accelerator but more importantly your brake. The only way to slow a boat down is to release the sails so they flap. As such they will simply act like a flag and you will slow down and even stop. Learning how to control your speed is arguably the most important skill in sailing. It is no good tearing around if you are unable to reduce your speed, and quickly, if need be, for example when approaching another vessel or hazard.

Rigging

Rigging is the generic term given to the collection of wires and ropes that support a mast and sails.

Some boats have unsupported masts that slot into sockets on the deck

There are two ways that the mast and sails are secured to the boat. On some boats like the laser shown in the photograph, the mast is inserted into a pocket on the mainsail and the whole assembly lifted and set into a socket on the hull. In this configuration the mast is relatively unsupported but, due to the reasonably small sail, the load on the rig is somewhat limited.

Most boats have wire rigging to support the mast

For larger boats where more load is introduced from the sails, wire rigging is used to support the mast. The side rigging consists of shrouds, with one each side of the hull, and the front wire is called a forestay. It is important to use all three wires to prevent the mast from bending or breaking whilst sailing. You may also have spreaders fitted on the mast. These are horizontal brackets that help to further spread the load of the sail to the mast.

A fully rigged two person boat

Boats with supporting rigging are fitted with rope or wire to hoist the sails. These lines are called halyards and are connected to the top of the sail. They are pulled to hoist the sail and then secured in place when the sail is fully up. They are simply then released to drop the sail back down again.

Halyards connect to the head of the sail and are used to hoist the sails

TOP TIP

- When putting up any sail, ensure it is fully hoisted otherwise it will be harder to control while sailing.

- Always unfurl the jib before packing it away as the sail cloth can stretch if the tightly furled jib is folded or bent.

A furling system can be fitted to the jib

On a two person boat it is now common to have a furling system for the jib. This simple system allows the rigged and hoisted sail (jib) to be rolled up and temporarily packed away without the need to fully lower the sail, for example during rigging and launching and even when learning to use the spinnaker. The control line to furl the jib is called the furling line.

Unfurling the sail is quick and easy to do

All boats should have a kicking strap or vang. This is a device that prevents the boom from rising up when the mainsail is released. Without the kicking strap, the boat will be extremely hard to control, particularly when the wind gets stronger.

Image on left shows correct kicking strap tension

The kicking strap has two configurations; one will push the boom down, and the other will pull it down – these configurations are purely down to boat design and both have the same effect on the mainsail.

Kicking straps can push the boom down . . .

When sailing upwind, pull the kicking strap tight

. . . or can pull the boom down. Both systems have the same effect

When sailing away from the wind, ease the kicking strap slightly

The boom connects to the mast with a flexible joint called a gooseneck. This can be either loosely connected, slotting into the end of the boom, or it can be permanently fixed to the mast.

The end of the boom slots over fitting on mast called gooseneck

For a loose fitting gooseneck the boom has a hole into which the gooseneck slides. It is held in place once the outhaul control line is pulled tight.

Connected gooseneck

TOP TIP

It is the design of the boat and rigging that dictates which gooseneck option your boat is fitted with. Loose fitted goosenecks tend to be on older designs of boat, with more modern boats utilising the fixed gooseneck. For more information on this refer to the rigging chapter on page 63.

Some boats have a permanently fixed gooseneck

At the tack of the mainsail the design of your boat will have one of two configurations for controlling the leading edge or luff of the sail.

The downhaul pulls the front edge (luff) of the sail down

On boats with a floating tack on the sail this is called a downhaul.

On boats where the tack of the sail is hard fixed to the end of the boom by the gooseneck, it is called a Cunningham.

Both do the same job. As the wind increases, this control line should be pulled tighter, which depowers the sail slightly, making it easier to control. Conversely in light winds this control line should be kept quite loose.

Alternative downhaul arrangement called Cunningham

Your mainsail may also have a reefing system. Reefing is the term given to the process of reducing the amount of mainsail area. For a full explanation read the reefing chapter on page 83.

Reefing reduces the sail area of the mainsail

Rudder

The rudder blade is your steering mechanism. Unlike a car that is steered by a wheel, dinghies have a rudder blade that works in the same way as the tail fin on an aircraft. With the rudder blade centrally positioned, the boat will sail in a straight line, but with even the smallest degree of angle on the rudder blade the boat will turn and continue to turn until the blade is central once more.

Tiller extension is held by the helmsman

The angle of the rudder blade is controlled by an arm attached to the rudder called the tiller. The part the helmsman holds is called the tiller extension and connects to the tiller via a universal joint.

Rudder blade lifted when ashore

The rudder blade is held in place with the rudder stock – this is a vertical post at the forward edge of the rudder, on which are a couple of fittings called pintles. These marry up with fittings on the transom, known as gudgeons, enabling the rudder to pivot easily.

The rudder blade usually lifts around a pin, which makes launching and recovering the boat from the water easier. Once lowered, the rudder blade is secured in place with a control line called the rudder downhaul, which is in turn secured with a small jam cleat on the tiller.

KNOTS

Knots are important to learn as they will allow you to untie a piece of rope easily. This chapter focuses on the most common types for dinghy sailing

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Knowing how to tie knots correctly is important, not only because you want to be sure that whatever you have secured will stay that way, but also because you will want to be able to untie a knot, even after a very heavy load has been applied. The wind can put tremendous force on any control line, so you must be sure that whatever item is secured is done so with a suitable knot.

You should practise the knots we show you below and be able to tie them blindfolded. Only then will you be familiar enough with each knot to be able to tie them quickly.

There are dozens of knots in existence. Most have specific uses and a few are purely decorative. Entire publications are dedicated to the subject, but we will just illustrate the most common and useful knots for dinghy sailing.

Figure-of-eight

This is a frequently used knot and one of the easiest to tie. It is sometimes called a stopper knot because it can be used to prevent a rope from pulling free from a fairlead or jam cleat.

1 Start with the rope in one hand

2 Bend the tail and pass it back across the standing part of the rope

3 Bend the tail back around and under the standing part

4 Position the tail so you can poke it through the loop from above

5 Finally, grab both tails and pull tight

6 The finished knot

Reef knot

Sometimes known as the square knot, this is a general purpose knot used to join two pieces of rope together. Not to be confused with a granny knot, the reef knot remains easy to undo.

1 Start by holding both pieces of rope you want to tie together in separate hands. Pass the left-hand piece of rope over the top of the right-hand piece

2 Bend this around and back under, pulling a bit of slack through

3 Bend both tails back towards each other so they point together

4 Next pass the tail of rope in your right hand over the left-hand piece and back under

5 Pull both tails tight

6 The finished knot

Round turn and two half hitches

This is a great knot that is used to tie a single piece of rope to a fixed object. It is particularly useful when tying a boat to a cleat on a pontoon or to its trolley, as the main loop of the knot bears all the load and the half hitches secure the knot in place. This knot works well under load, but remains easy to untie when required.

1 Take the tail of the rope and pass it around the fixed object so it makes one complete revolution

2 Continue bending the tail around the fixed object so it points back towards you

3 Bend the tail over the standing part and thread the tail through the gap that appears between the tail and the fixed object

4 Pull the tail tight. This creates the first ‘hitch’

5 Repeat the process to make the second hitch

6 Bend the tail back upwards, poking the tail through the hole that appears below the first hitch

7 Pull tight

Clove hitch

This is an alternative to the round turn and two half hitches.

1 Pass the tail of the rope over the top of the fixed object and bring the tail back towards you

2 Cross the tail over the top of the standing part of the rope

3 Bend the tail over the top of the fixed object and back towards you and poke the tail back up through the gap that has appeared and pull tight

Bowline

This is perhaps the most complex of the simple knots to master, but it is worth persevering as it is probably the most useful knot to a sailor.

The bowline is used to create a fixed single loop in the end of a line. It is very strong under load and can be used for many purposes on the boat, such as tying a sheet to the clew of a sail or securing the painter to a ring or post. It is also very easy to untie.

1 Start by holding the tail of the piece of rope in both hands

2 Make a small loop in the standing part of the rope so the top of the loop is on top of the standing part of the rope

3 Pick up the tail and pass this up through the loop from underneath

4 Thread the tail underneath the standing part of the rope

5 Take the tail and pass behind the standing part of the rope

6 Finally, bend the tail back around the standing part and thread it down through the loop from the top

7 Tail is poked though the loop

8 Pull tight

Examples of where you would use each knot

Knots can be used in a variety of places, although there are too many to indicate below. Typical uses can be the following:

TYPE OF KNOT

CHARACTERISTICS OF KNOT

EXAMPLES OF USE

Figure-of-eight

Stops a line running free from a fairlead or cleat

On the end of any control sheet or line

Reef knot

Used for tying two pieces of line together, and doesn’t lock when placed under load

Reefing points on some mainsails

Round turn and two half hitches

Easy to tie knot that is load bearing and can be tied to a fixed object

Securing painter rope to pontoon for launching

Clove hitch

Alternative to round turn and two half hitches

Bowline

Creates a fixed loop to a single line

At the end of a spinnaker halyard and retrieval line, tying a sheet to the clew of a sail or securing the painter to a ring or post

YOUR SAILING ENVIRONMENT AND SAFETY

Safety afloat is your priority and this extends to where you sail. Wear the right clothing to suit the weather for your particular environment

Introduction

Sailing is a fun sport enjoyed by millions in a variety of environments – inland, on the sea, on lakes and rivers, in fact anywhere there is a large patch of water. The environment in which you sail is a vital consideration before going afloat. Sailing in unsuitable conditions can be dangerous and should be avoided. You must only sail in an area where you can control the boat comfortably. This chapter looks at the sailing environment and what you should wear when sailing.

Sailing is best enjoyed in a safe environment

The golden rule of sailing is NEVER sail alone. A quiet and deserted stretch of water may look inviting and a good place to learn alone, but hidden hazards or currents could exist. You must choose a location where other boats are sailing. The best places are recognised clubs that can provide assistance if required, should you get into difficulties. You will also receive expert local knowledge of the area from practically every club member, so this is another reason to sail at a recognised sailing club.

Only sail where other boats are present

You should keep clear of any large commercial shipping as they cannot alter course easily.

Be wary of other water users

Unexposed rocks and sandbanks may also be a problem.

Buoyancy aids

A personal flotation device must be worn at all times when on or near the water. Even if you are a very confident swimmer you can be dunked quickly into cold, deep water and clothing will hinder your ability to swim. Most dinghy sailors wear a buoyancy aid that will help to keep them afloat when they are in the water. These are comfortable to wear and allow free body movement as you move around the boat. It is important to understand that these vests will not keep you face up in the unlikely event of being knocked unconscious. If you are worried about this then a full lifejacket should be worn. Lifejackets tend to be bulky and cumbersome to wear on a dinghy and they will restrict your movement around the boat.

Buoyancy aids are snug fitting

The vast majority of people opt for the buoyancy aid. You must wear your buoyancy aid tightly so it doesn’t come off when you fall in the water.

Life jackets can be cumbersome but offer more buoyancy

Winds

You should pay attention to weather forecasts, and in particular to what the wind strength and direction is likely to be in your area for the time you plan to sail. Forecasts are available from local press, radio and television as well as internet or mobile phone applications.

Strong winds can create big waves

You must always understand your level of ability and respect the elements. Do not sail if the wind is strong until you have learned the basics on fair weather days.

To help judge the wind speed there is a recognised wind measurement scale called the Beaufort scale. This comprises bands of wind force strengths, starting at zero and going up to hurricane force 12. To begin with you should limit your sailing to fair weather days where there is a moderate breeze of no more than force 4 or 16 knots (28 kph).

Beaufort scale measures wind speed

As your experience grows you will be able to cope with demands of stronger winds. It is better to have an enjoyable sailing session and learn a bit more each time than risk sailing in unsuitable conditions.

Flags on a medium wind strength day

Fair weather days are ideal as there is a reasonable breeze on these days and you will get a good feel for how the boat is driven by the wind. On fair weather days, flags flutter gently in the breeze and the water should look relatively smooth. A wind of around force three to four (wind up to 16 knots) provides ideal conditions in which to learn how to sail.

Avoid strong winds until your experience has grown. If faced with this situation, you must not go afloat.

Flag on a strong wind day

Do not sail in a thunderstorm, as the mast is an excellent lightning conductor. If you get caught out in one, you must return to shore. As mentioned earlier, before you go afloat you should obtain a good weather forecast for your area.

Lee shore

This is the term used to describe the beach or area of land onto which the wind is blowing. It can be hard to sail away from a lee shore as the wind will always try to blow you back on to it. We explain more on how to launch from a lee shore in the launching chapter on page 127, but when out sailing you must identify which area is likely to be the lee shore and keep well away from it.

Tides

If you are sailing on the sea you must be aware of the tide and what that means to you. The tide comes in and out twice a day, taking approximately 12 hours for one complete cycle. Information on tide times comes in a variety of sources. Weather and tide information is generally available online, in local media, on a mobile phone application or on the wall of your local sailing club.

Weather forecasts are available in a variety of places

The cycle of the moon has an effect on the tide times and the tidal range, which is the difference in height between high water and low water.

When there is either a full or new moon, the earth, the sun and the moon are all in a line and Spring tides come into effect. On a Spring tide the tidal range is increased with higher high water levels and lower low water levels.

The phase of the moon has different effects on the tidal range. New and full moon has spring tides which are stronger than neap tides which are at half phase

When the moon is in half phase it sits to one side of the line between the earth and the sun, and Neap tides come into effect, resulting in a smaller tidal range.

Water currents can exceed the speed of a boat

As well as the impact of the moon, tidal ranges also vary depending on your location and the atmospheric pressure. So research your particular area and understand what the tides and weather are doing during the period in which you plan to sail.

As the tide comes in and out, the current in the water changes direction (by as much as 180 degrees) and speed. The current can exceed the speed your boat is capable of reaching when sailing; bear in mind that if you haven’t researched the tides properly you could be swept out to sea if the wind drops.

Tidal flows are strongest at harbour entrances

Tidal currents get particularly strong at harbour entrances and headlands, therefore avoid sailing in these areas.

Currents also exist in rivers, so if you plan to sail on a river you must find out what the directional flow of the current is going to be. The speed of the current is also affected by the amount of recent rain-water as this can swell the volume of water in the river.

Tidal flow changes direction depending on the state of the tide

Boat condition

Your boat must be in a seaworthy condition and be fully watertight. If you are in doubt, you must get the boat checked by a professional. You should regularly check the hull for cracks and holes and get these repaired as a matter of urgency. You should also regularly inspect any wire rigging that the boat has and replace parts of this if there are obvious signs of wear. Wooden boats may need a coat of new paint or varnish to keep the wood in good condition.

Make sure your boat is in good condition and repair any damage immediately

Buoyancy tanks have plastic inspection hatches that should be well fitted, while drainage holes are inserted at the back of the boat to allow you to drain any water that may collect in the buoyancy tanks while sailing. For more information on buoyancy tanks and drainage holes see know your boat chapter on page 9.

Boats have inbuilt buoyancy in the construction

It’s a good idea to carry a paddle on board that you can use if the wind drops, a long piece of rope in case you need to be towed, a whistle to attract attention, a sharp safety knife, a sponge and a bailer to allow you to scoop out any water that may collect in the boat. A small anchor is sensible if you are sailing on the sea and you may also consider carrying a small flare pack. Your local chandler should be able to provide specific advice on these.

Carry a paddle

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- Use a plastic four litre milk container cut in half as a bailer. This is much cheaper than one from a shop, works just as well and is easy to replace when lost.

- Make sure that any loose items are tied on so that you don’t lose them if you capsize.

Other equipment to have aboard; also consider carrying a safety knife

Clothing

What you wear is also very important. You must wear clothing to suit the climate in your particular area, whether it be hot or cold. This will range from shorts and tee shirts in warmer climates to wetsuits and even drysuits in the winter months.

Buoyancy aid must be the outermost garment in case you need two be dragged back on board

Chandlers stock a wide range of suitable clothing. Most nautical clothing is made from man-made fibres and is ideally suited for sailing. These types of fabrics are light to wear, flexible when worn and yet still offer warmth when wet. They also dry quickly.

It is best to wear a series of thin layers that could be adjusted if needed. Being too hot is just as much of a hazard as being too cold.

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It is important to wear your buoyancy aid as the outermost garment of clothing. This will allow somebody to grab hold of it easily to help pull you back aboard in the event of a capsize or safety boat rescue.

To help keep the wind and spray off you, you should wear a waterproof layer. It will also help to keep you warm. This layer can either be a one piece suit or top and trousers. Breathable fabrics are best for these items as they are far more comfortable to wear than non-breathable items.

Do not wear natural fibres such as wool or cotton – they are heavy when wet and don’t dry quickly

Bear in mind that even on a sunny day, if it is windy the spray will cool you down significantly, which could be uncomfortable so a spray top is well advised.

Windproof tops keep the wind and spray off

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If you are going day sailing, it is a good idea to take some spare clothes in a sealed waterproof bag.

Make sure that you store any dry clothes in a waterproof bag

A wetsuit is a sensible option if you plan to sail on windy days or when the weather is inclement. Wetsuits are made from stretchy neoprene and should be tight fitting. When wet, they work by trapping a layer of water in the suit next to the skin, which heats up quickly. Wetsuits are flexible to wear and also offer great protection from knocks and bangs as well as from the sun.

Wetsuits trap a layer of water in the suit that acts as insulation

If you decide to sail in cold areas or over the winter, you may consider a drysuit. These suits are designed to keep the water out and have flexible seals around the neck and wrists. It is also usual for them to have integrated socks. They work by keeping you dry and, when worn in conjunction with a series of thin layers underneath, you can dress according to the temperature you are in. In cold weather more than 50 per cent of heat loss is through the head, so wear a warm hat.

Wear a hat if it is cold

Beware of the sun

You must be careful of the sun’s rays. The wind and spray can mask the burning power of the UV light, particularly on a windy day. Even with cloud cover, the UV light can still get through and is also intensified by reflections off the water. Take sun cream afloat with you and apply it regularly to exposed areas of skin. A hat with a peak is also useful.

Protect yourself from UV light by applying waterproof sun cream

If you wear sunglasses, ensure that these are made of plastic and fit a restraining strap to the arms of the glasses in case they fall off.

Wear plastic sun glasses when sunny to reduce the glare

Other considerations

Footwear is important. Try to avoid sailing barefoot. You can easily stub your toe moving around the boat or cut it on an exposed sharp area. Non-slip footwear is a practical choice and a wide selection is available from chandlers.

Good footwear is important. Non-slip shoes or boots are best

Ropes can burn your hands if you let them slide through your fingers, so wearing sailing gloves is a sensible idea.

Ropes can burn your hands if they slip through, so wear gloves

Some people opt to wear safety helmets to protect them from bangs, usually from the boom.

Dehydration is a factor that also needs to be considered. Sailing is a physically active sport and you can lose a lot of moisture through perspiration after even moderate effort. Take out something to drink in a plastic bottle and carry a few snacks aboard too.

Safety helmets are advisable for children

Carry drinking water

Other safety matters

Keep a lookout

It is vital to keep a good lookout at all times when sailing. In particular pay attention under the sails as boats can come at you from any angle.

Always keep a good lookout and avoid collisions

Bear in mind that the wind will often make it hard to hear approaching vessels, especially another sailing boat, so a good lookout is essential. It is the responsibility of everyone afloat to avoid collisions, regardless of who is ‘in the right’, so be prepared to take avoiding action or stop to prevent a collision.

For more information on rules please read the rules chapter on page 51.

Make big arm movements to attract attention

Under tow

As mentioned, the best place to sail is somewhere there is a safety boat in operation. If you need to catch the safety boat’s attention, stop the boat and allow the sails to flap. Stand up if you are able to do so and make large arm movements to further attract the attention of the safety boat crew.

Wrap tow rope around the mast and hold tight. DO NOT tie the rope fast

You may even consider lowering the mainsail if your boat is fitted with a halyard or release the clew outhaul on the mainsail to let the sail flap. This will draw more attention to yourself.

If you need to be towed ashore, the safety boat crew will instruct you on what to do but, with the sails lowered, the crew should take the tow rope from the safety boat and wrap it completely around the mast, holding it tight. Do not tie this off – you may need to release it quickly, so having the rope looped around the mast allows you to do so.

You may need to let the tow boat slip in a hurry

Raise the centreboard fully. The safety crew will then secure the tow rope to their boat and slowly take up the slack. You then steer to follow the safety boat. Near the shore, or when instructed to do so, simply let go of the tow rope and use your paddle for the last little bit.

Either raise the centreboard before being towed . . .

If you need to be towed while sailing a single person dinghy, wrap the tow rope completely around the mast and hold it in one hand, remove or fully raise the centreboard and steer the boat with the other hand.

. . . or remove the daggerboard

Single person holds tow rope and steers

Man overboard (MOB)

If you fall overboard in a single person boat, the boat will usually either capsize or gently turn towards the wind and stop. Simply swim towards the boat and climb aboard. However, the force of the wind on the unmanned boat may be stronger than your ability to swim. This is one of the reasons why you must never sail alone. If you remain in the water the safety boat should spot you and come and pick you out of the water.

1 Identify where the MOB is in the water and sail away on a beam reach

If the boat has capsized, follow the procedure in the capsize chapter on page 199.

2 After 25 metres tack round, keeping sight of the MOB

In a two person boat, if one person falls overboard the remaining person should immediately check the position of the casualty in the water and keep the person in view, taking control of the tiller.

3 Start to drop below the MOB by sailing on a broad reach

Bear in mind that it is easy to become disorientated, particularly in this situation, so try to link the casualty in the water to a fixed landmark.

4 When below the MOB start to turn towards the wind to slow down

First turn onto a beam reach on your current tack, which is when the wind is blowing across the boat. Sail away for about 25 metres. This distance is important as it will allow you to adopt a more controlled approach to the casualty.

5 Travelling slowly, approach the MOB so he is opposite the boom

Turn the boat around by tacking slowly through the wind (see the tacking chapter on page 183) and turn onto the broad reach on the other tack. Try to keep sight of the casualty at all times.

Sail past the casualty slowly by letting the jib flap and control the mainsail so it mostly flaps to ensure you approach slowly. (Use your masthead burgee or flags ashore to judge where the wind is blowing from).

6 Recover the MOB back on board

The last thing you want to do is run the casualty over at speed!

Continue sailing until you are slightly downwind of the casualty.

Man overboard path

When you are approximately three metres away from the casualty, turn the boat back towards the wind so you approach on a close reach point of sailing. This will take you slowly towards the casualty. Leave the mainsheet so the sail flaps, but be prepared to pull it in slightly if you go too slowly.

Steer to approach the casualty so he is on the windward side of the boat, opposite the boom. This will make it easier to deal with the casualty and reduce the chance of him pulling the boat over when he climbs back aboard.

Help the casualty aboard by pulling on his buoyancy aid. This can be either near the shrouds or, if your boat has an open transom, it may be easier to pull him in over the stern.

It is a good idea to practise this man overboard manoeuvre using a suitable floating object weighted down with some rope to give ballast. The secret is controlling your final approach speed and aim to stop right by the casualty.

Key learning points

- Understand your level of ability.

- Respect the elements.

- Always wear a personal buoyancy aid.

- Never sail alone.

- Understand the tide times and weather forecast.

- Make sure your boat is seaworthy.

- Wear clothing to suit your particular environment in layers that can be adjusted as your temperature varies.

- The wind can mask the power of the sun’s rays so you should use sun cream to protect exposed skin.

- Keep a good lookout at all times and be prepared to take immediate avoiding action, even if you appear to be in the right.

Next steps

Safety afloat should be your paramount concern. Do not feel embarrassed if you decide not to go out if the environment or weather does not suit you.

Make sure you understand the weather forecast and research the tide times if you are sailing on the sea. Also, research other local environmental aspects that may affect your area.

Familiarise yourself with websites that will give you information about the weather and tides for the area in which you are likely sail. This way you will get used to reading and interpreting information for different weather conditions and tide times.

Practise being able to read the wind strength by fluttering flags and ripples on the water.

Practise your man overboard drill so you are well rehearsed if you are needed to do this for real.

RULES OF THE ROAD

Rules are there for everyone’s safety. Make sure you learn the basic ones to ensure your safety

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Why have rules?

Rules are there for everyone’s safety. They are in place to make it clear to everyone on the water who has priority for any particular situation. The basic rules we will be illustrating form only a small part of The International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea or IRPCS. This is a weighty publication laying out the regulations for all vessels afloat, including heavy commercial shipping.

Rules exist for everyone’s safety

This chapter focuses on the fundamental rules and covers the most common situations. As a dinghy sailor you must at least have knowledge of these, but also be aware that other regulations do apply in certain situations, mainly when racing. If you plan to race, you should research these additional rules separately – entire books have been written on this subject and as such are beyond the scope of this chapter.

Understanding the rules allows people to sail in close proximity with other boats

Avoid a collision

When afloat, the priority of all vessels is to avoid a collision or any incident. The most basic rule that you must observe always is to keep a good lookout at all times. Be prepared to take avoiding action in plenty of time, even if you think you should not be the one to give way; the oncoming vessel simply may not have seen you.

Further racing rules apply which are beyond the scope of this chapter

Do not forget to look under the boom as well as behind your back as boats can come at you from any angle. Be aware that the wind may restrict your ability to hear the sounds of approaching vessels, and sailing boats in particular can be hard to hear.

Keep a good lookout at all times for approaching vessels

TOP TIP

It is important to regularly check the areas around your boat, but remember that sailing boats generally travel at slow speeds unless planing. Try and judge the speed and location of each approaching vessel and in particular be wary of boats on a close-hauled point of sailing. They can quickly change tack and suddenly be on a collision course.

Who has priority?

Vessels are described as being the ‘give way’ vessel and the ‘stand on’ vessel. Note that no boats are described as being the ‘right of way’ vessel. Regardless of the situation, it is everyone’s priority to avoid a collision afloat, but the ‘give way’ vessel is the vessel that should take the avoiding action first.

Always be prepared to take avoiding action

When taking avoiding action, it is best to steer behind the oncoming vessel rather than chance your luck and dash in front.

Sail versus power

In most situations sail has priority over power boats, which should keep out of your way. However, you must keep clear of large commercial shipping or fishing vessels; they are often constrained by their draught or their manoeuvrability.

You must also keep out of the way of any man-powered vessels like rowing boats.

Power gives way to sail, but keep clear of commercial and fishing shipping

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Motor vessels can travel significantly faster than a sailing dinghy and, even if they seem a long way away, can reach you much sooner than you think, so keep a constant lookout at all times. Bear in mind that at sea level, the horizon is only about three miles away so fast boats can cover that distance very quickly.

Points of sailing

This topic is covered in detail in the points of sailing chapter on page 95, but any point of sailing where the wind is on the left-hand side of the boat is called port tack and is the ‘give way’ tack. Any point of sailing where the wind is on the right-hand side of the boat is called starboard tack, which is the ‘stand on’ tack.

1 Boats with the wind on their left-hand side are on port tack

You must familiarise yourself with what point of sailing and what tack you are on at all times, as this has a direct bearing on whether you are the ‘give way’ vessel or not.

2 Boats with the wind on their right-hand side are on starboard tack

If you are the boat on starboard, it is more likely that you are the ‘stand on’ vessel, in which case you can alert your position to oncoming traffic on port tack by shouting loudly starboard. But you must be prepared to take avoiding action if the boat on port does not respond.

3 Familiarise and understand the rules that apply to your point of sailing at all times

4 Boats on starboard can shout starboard to alert the attention of oncoming port tack boats

Port versus starboard

This can come in a variety of guises. Fundamentally, the boat on port is the ‘give way’ vessel and should keep clear of the boat on starboard. That said, the boat on port often has choices.

Converging close-hauled

Fig 4.12 to 4.14 look at two converging boats on the close-hauled point of sailing. The boat in red is on port tack and is the ‘give way’ vessel. The green boat is on starboard and is the ‘stand on’ vessel. The red boat must avoid the green boat by either steering behind the starboard boat or taking an alternative course of action, as shown in fig 4.15 to 4.17.

4.12 Close-hauled boats

4.13 Boat on port can turn behind starboard boat

4.14 Boat on port resumes close-hauled point of sailing

4.15 Converging boats sailing close-hauled

4.16 Boat on port tack can also tack onto starboard

4.17 After tacking, both boats sail parallel to each other

In this sequence the boat on port tacks onto starboard to match the green boat and sail alongside it.

Converging on other points of sailing

The same rule applies if you are sailing with the wind behind you on a broad reach or running point of sailing.

In fig 4.18 to 4.20, once again the boat in red is on port so should avoid the boat in green, which is sailing on starboard. The red boat has the choice of turning behind the green boat and then continuing on its original point of sailing, or fig 4.21 to 4.23 show an alternative course of action for the port boat. Here the boat sailing on port can gybe onto starboard to sail parallel to the green boat.

4.18 Converging boats on broad reach point of sail

4.19 Boat on port can turn behind starboard boat

4.20 Boat on port resumes its original course

4.21 Converging boats sailing close-hauled

4.22 Boat on port tack can also gybe onto starboard

4.23 After gybing, both boats sail parallel to each other

Close-hauled versus running

Another common rule is when two boats converge on different points of sailing.

Fig 4.24 to 4.26 show a boat sailing close-hauled meeting a boat sailing on a downwind point of sailing. The red boat is close-hauled and sailing on port tack. The green boat is running and on starboard. As before, the red boat must keep out of the way of the green boat. The best way is to tack onto starboard to sail clear.

4.24 Converging boats – red boat is sailing on port close-hauled and green boat is sailing on a starboard run

4.25 The boat on port can avoid the starboard boat by tacking through the wind

4.26 This will force the boats on different courses and keep them clear

As shown in fig 4.27 to 4.29, the alternative is that the red boat sailing on port could push slightly into the no go zone (see page 98) to slow down in order to let the green boat pass and then steer behind the green boat.

4.27 Boat sailing port close-hauled approaching boat sailing starboard running

4.28 Boat on port can gently push into the no go zone to slow down

4.29 Once the starboard boat has passed, both boats resume their original point of sailing

Let’s look at this scenario with the situation reversed. In fig 4.30 to 4.32 we see the boat that is on the running point of sailing is on port tack meeting a boat that is sailing close-hauled on starboard. Once again the red boat must avoid the green boat and then continue on its preferred course. As shown in fig 4.33 to 4.34a, the alternative for the boat running on port is for it to gybe onto starboard and sail clear of the close-hauled boat.

4.30 Converging boats, with close-hauled boat on starboard tack

4.31 Boat on port steers to avoid the boat on starboard

4.32 Once passed, the boat on port resumes its original point of sailing

4.33 Boats converging on different points of sailing

4.34 Boat on port can gybe to keep clear of starboard boat

4.34a Gybing will keep the boats apart

Converging boats on same tack

Another common situation is when boats converge on different points of sailing but on the same tack. The rules are the same whether both boats are on port tack (as we are illustrating) or on starboard.

Fig 4.35 to 4.37 show a boat close-hauled on port tack sailing directly towards a boat that is on a training run also on port tack.

4.35 Boats converging on same tack

4.36 Windward boat keeps clear

4.37 Windward boat steers behind the other boat

In this situation, it is the boat with the wind behind it sailing down the page that is the ‘give way’ vessel, so must take action to avoid the boat sailing up the page. The boat sailing down the page is often called the windward boat (ie, the boat that is closest to the wind). When faced with this situation it is the windward boat that should keep clear.

In fig 4.35 the boat sailing down the page turns to avoid the boat sailing close-hauled. Once passed, it resumes its original point of sailing.

The alternative (not illustrated) is for the windward boat to gybe onto starboard. The course taken in this situation is similar to the course taken by the windward boat in fig 4.33-4.34a.

Similar points of sailing

Now let’s look at what happens when two boats converge that are on very similar points of sailing. Regardless of the point of sailing they are both on, it is the windward boat that must keep out of the way.

Fig 4.38 and 4.39 have two boats on port on similar converging courses. Here it is the windward boat that must keep clear and alter its course to avoid a collision with the other vessel by sailing on a parallel course.

4.38 Converging boats on similar points of sailing

4.39 Windward boat keeps clear and can alter course to match other boat

Fig 4.38 and 4.40 show the alternative, where the windward boat can alter its course by bearing away from the wind and steering behind the other vessel. It can then continue on its original heading.

4.40 Windward boat keeps clear and sails behind other boat

4.42 Overtaking boats keep clear

4.43 Steering to the windward side keeps overtaking boat in clear wind

4.44 Sailing parallel, the overtaking boat should pass quickly

4.45 Alternatively the overtaking boat can pass on the leeward side

4.46 Overtaking boat bears away slightly to keep clear

4.47 Overtaking boat attempts to pass slower boat under its wind shadow

Overtaking

You may also find yourself in a situation where two boats are sailing along exactly the same line on the same point of sailing. In this situation, it is the faster overtaking boat that must keep clear, but it does have choices.

Fig 4.42 to 4.44 illustrate two boats sailing parallel, with the overtaking boat on the left. Here the best course for the overtaking boat is to luff into the wind slightly to take a parallel course to overtake on the windward side.

This avoids the disturbed wind pattern under the boom caused by the slower boat. Disturbed wind is called dirty wind or wind shadow and is present under the boom of any boat sailing on the water.

Fig 4.45 to 4.47 show an alternative course of action. In this example, the overtaking boat can steer underneath the slower boat and attempt to sail through the wind shadow. But if you do this, it is likely that your ability to overtake will be hindered.

When racing you will come much closer to other boats which calls for good boat control and understanding of the racing rules

As mentioned, the rules we have shown in this chapter are the most basic so please be aware that additional rules do exist – if in doubt, keep clear of other vessels to avoid collisions well in advance.

Key learning points

- Keep a good lookout at all times.

- Avoid a collision, even if you are the ‘stand on’ vessel.

- Power gives way to sail, with the exception of large commercial and fishing vessels.

- Port gives way to starboard.

- Windward boat keeps clear of leeward boat.

- Overtaking boat keeps clear.

RIGGING

Rigging can be complicated so it is important to have a correct understanding of all the components on the boat and how they fit together

Introduction

Rigging is the general term used to describe the action of preparing the boat for sailing by attaching the sails and rudder.

Mainsail that slides over the mast

There are two main styles of rigging. The first is an unsupported mast where the mast is inserted into a pocket on the mainsail and the whole assembly is then lifted into a socket on the hull of the boat.

The other main style of rigging is the Bermuda style. This is where the mast is supported with a series of wires at the side and bow of the boat, and the sails are hoisted by control lines called halyards.

Entire rig is lifted into place

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When rigging any sail ashore, if there is enough space, try to ensure that the bow of the boat is pointing towards the wind. This will stop the wind from catching the sail and blowing into the mud.

Mainsail hoisted by halyard

The process for hoisting the sails is basically the same, regardless of where you are launching. However, when launching from a beach, the mainsail is usually hoisted on the shore before the boat is put into the water, whereas when launching from a pontoon, the boat is tied to the pontoon before the mainsail is raised.

Park boat head to wind before hoisting mainsail

For more information on this, read the launching chapters on pages 127 and 149.

Rig the sail on the shore if you are launching from a beach

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It is a good idea for all control lines to be of a different coloured rope. This way you can easily identify which control line does what and be sure to grab the right one.

On a pontoon use the leeward side to rig the boat

Bermuda rig

On this rig, the mast is supported with two wires of equal length to either side called shrouds and one to the front called the forestay. The foot of the mast is stepped into a fixture on the hull and the wire rigging is connected to fixed plates on the side and bow of the boat.

Fully rigged two person dinghy

The sails are pulled up using halyards, which can be made from either a very strong non-stretch rope or a wire with a short rope tail. This is purely down to mast design and personal preference, and both do the same job.

On a two person boat you will have two sails to rig; these are the mainsail and jib.

Rigging the jib

Remove the jib from its storage bag, unroll it, keeping the sail clear from contact with the ground, and place the sail on the foredeck. Then get hold of the jib halyard and check above to make sure it is not tangled in the rigging.

1 Connect head of jib to the jib halyard

Next, connect the jib halyard to the top corner (head) of the sail with the shackle and split ring. Do not hoist the sail yet.

You then connect the front corner of the jib (tack) to the fitting on the bow with the shackle and split ring.

2 Attach tack of jib to the bow of the boat

Pass one of the jib sheets through the fairleads on the deck of the boat (see below left) – these should be near the shrouds – and thread the rope through the jam cleat, tying a Figure-Of-Eight stopper knot (see page 28) in the end. This will prevent the rope from running free when sailing.

Repeat the process on the other side of the boat with the other jib sheet.

3 Tack of sail connected

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Tie both ends of the rigged jib sheets together with a reef knot. This way, if the crew drops the rope it is easily recovered.

4 Pass jib sheet through fairlead and tie figure-of-eight on the end

Next, hoist the jib, ensuring that the bow of the boat is pointing towards the wind. Pull on the jib halyard tail, keeping an eye on the sail to make sure it does not get tangled during the hoist.

5 Hoist the jib – one person pulls and the other steadies the sail

To stop the sail falling on the ground and getting dirty, one person hoists the sail whilst the other guides it.

When the wire halyard comes out of the mast, connect this to the hook on the jib tension system, which is located nearby. Pull this tension system tight; you need to pull as hard as you can to make sure the rigging is taut.

6 Connect halyard end to tension system on the mast

A rough guide to checking the tension of the shrouds is to give them a pluck. Rigged tightly, the shrouds behave in the same way as a guitar string and you should hear an audible ‘twang’.

7 Rigging should be tight. When the shroud is plucked a low note should be heard

TOP TIP

The jib halyard must be pulled tight, otherwise the boat will not be able to head as close to the no go zone as needed to allow you to successfully sail towards the wind. On boats that do not have the jib tension system, the crew can gently pull on the forestay once the jib is hoisted. This pulls the top of the mast forward and makes it easier to secure the halyard tightly.

8 Furl the jib

To stop the sail from flapping in the wind for the rest of the rigging and launching process, pull on the jib furling line, if you have one, to temporarily store the jib.

This line is usually located under the foredeck near the mast.

Rigging the mainsail

Position the boat with the bow pointing towards the wind.

Mainsails can be rigged either on a beach or on a pontoon. The process is the same, but it is vital that the bow of the boat is pointing directly into the wind before you attempt to do this.

1 Take the mainsail out of the sail bag

Take the sail out of its bag and place it in the boat, with the luff edge of the sail by the mast.

The luff has a rope sewn into the sail to keep the sail secure in the mast track when the sail is hoisted.

Unroll the sail loosely, ensuring the sail remains in the boat.

Untie the mainsail halyard from where it is stored (usually tied to the shroud) and connect the halyard to the head of the sail. Here simply make a loop close to the end of the halyard and poke this loop through the eyelet on the sail.

2 Place luff of sail near the mast and unroll the sail

Bend the tail back and pass the plastic stopper back through the loop created.

Pull the halyard tight to hold the stopper in place.

3 Locate and untie halyard from the shroud

4 Make a loop in the end of the halyard and poke through head of sail

5 Bend plastic stopper back and pass through the loop

6 Pull halyard tight

7 Look above to ensure halyard is not tangled

TOP TIP

When connecting the halyard, first look above to check it isn’t caught up around the shroud.

Take the head of the sail and slide this into the track located on the back of the mast. Pull the slack out of the halyard.

One person should pull the halyard to hoist the sail whilst the other person guides the sail into the track, making sure it does not jump free.

8 Sail introduced to mast track and gently hoisted

Continue hoisting the sail until the sail is fully raised, but note that the higher the sail goes, the harder you will need to pull. Look above to check the sail is fully hoisted.

9 Second person feeds the sail

10 Look at the top of the mast to check the sail is fully hoisted

To keep the sail at the top of the mast, lock the halyard in the jam cleat, which should be located nearby.

11 Lock halyard in cleat

Tidy up the rest of the halyard and store it safely. Most boats have small bags fitted for this purpose.

Some sails have an extra restraining strap near the tack of the sail. If you have this, loop it around the mast and secure it.

12 Tidy up the halyard tail

13 Store halyard tails

14 Wrap securing strap around mast

15 Pull securing strap tight and lock off

16 Buoyancy bag helps prevent boat inverting should you capsize

TOP TIP

Buoyancy bags

It is a good idea to fit a flotation bag to the top of your mast. This will help prevent the boat from inverting in the event of capsizing and will make it easier to pull the boat back up again. The flotation bag can simply be connected via the halyard to the head of the sail before hoisting.

17 Pass downhaul through tack of sail

Next, secure the tack of the sail. This is controlled with a control line called the downhaul. Loop the downhaul through the eyelet on the sail and secure it back to the boom with either a bowline around the gooseneck or slide a small stopper knot in the mast track just below the gooseneck. For more information on knots, see page 27.

18 Secure downhaul back to mast

Pull the downhaul tight and secure it in the cleat on the side of the mast.

19 Pull downhaul tight

The next step is to rig the corner or clew of the sail. The clew of the sail is inserted into a track on top of the boom and pulled out to the end.

The outhaul line is then threaded through the eyelet on the sail and looped back to the end of the boom, with the end of the line secured to a point on the boom.

20 Secure downhaul

21 Thread outhaul line through clew of mainsail

22 Secure end of outhaul line to boom

Tighten the clew outhaul by pulling on the other end of this line, near the mast.

23 Pull the clew outhaul tight

Continue pulling the line tight until the sail is near the end of the boom. This keeps the sail flat, which will be easier to handle afloat.

When the clew outhaul is correctly tensioned, the foot of the sail should have approximately 5cm of curve at the mid point of the boom.

24 Clew needs to be close to the end of the boom

TOP TIP

The outhaul setting can be pulled further to make the shape of the sail flatter if the wind increases. This reduces the aerodynamic lift the sail will generate.

25 Sail should have approximately 5cm of curve at the mid point of the boom

With the sail and boom now attached, the mainsheet is then simply threaded between the blocks on the boom and on the boat.

Poke the end of the mainsheet through the mainsheet jam cleat and tie a figure-of-eight stopper knot (see page 28) in the end of the rope to stop it running free when sailing.

26 Thread the mainsheet through the pulley assembly on boom

TOP TIP

Try to buy a mainsheet of 7mm diameter as this is slightly thinner than most standard mainsheets (typically 8mm in diameter). The thinner rope will run through the blocks easier, allowing you to adjust the sail easier. Be aware that a rope of this thickness will be harder on the hands, so be sure to wear gloves.

27 Tie figure-of-eight stopper knot in the end of the mainsheet

Alternative setup for the mainsail

An alternative configuration is for the foot of the mainsail to slide along a track on top of the boom, with both ends secured prior to hoisting the sail.

1 Some sails are close fitted to the boom with the foot of the sail slid along the track on the top of the boom

The sail and boom are then hoisted as one item and the gooseneck slotted into place. In this configuration, the kicking strap usually works by pulling the boom down. For more information on kicking straps, see the chapter know your boat, page 9.

With the bow of the boat pointing towards the wind, hoist the sail to the top of the mast and secure the halyard in place. During the hoist, the wind will cause the boom to flap with the sail. This can result in injury or damage, so be careful to keep your head out of the way. Next, gently push down on the boom and slide the gooseneck into the end of the boom.

2 Gooseneck on mast slots into the end of the boom

For boats of this type the downhaul is called a Cunningham. Simply thread the Cunningham through the eyelet on the sail and secure it around the gooseneck with a bowline.

3 Gooseneck fully connected to boom

4 Cunningham control threads through second eyelet just above the tack

5 Left hand image has correct kicking strap tension, image on the right is too slack

Wire halyards

Your boat may be fitted with a wire main halyard. In this situation the shackle is fitted to the head of the mainsail, and when the sail is hoisted the end of the halyard fits over a rack at the bottom of the mast.

Wire halyard connects to head of sail with a shackle

Wire halyards have a rope tail that is pulled to hoist the sail. This halyard and tail each have a loop which are connected together. It is personal preference as to which one you opt for on your boat and it is possible to change from one to the other. Wire halyards offer more consistency as it is easier to spot when the sail is pulled to the top of the mast.

Loop the end of the wire halyard over the rack on the mast

With any sail it is important to pull the sail fully up. In particular the mainsail and spinnaker. When hoisted look above to check that the sail is as far up as it can go.

Mainsails tend to have a black band painted on the tip of the mast. The mainsail should be pulled up to that point.

Unstayed mast

Some single person dinghies don’t have wire rigging to support the mast. On these boats the sail has a permanent pocket in which the mast is inserted prior to lifting. The whole unit is then lifted and placed into the deck of the boat.

Unstayed rigs on a single person boat

Mainsails on this type of mast do not have a track along the boom to hold the foot of the sail in place. The clew of the sail is connected to the outhaul on the boom, using the outhaul control line (this is looped through the sail and then attached to the end of the boom). On a boat like a Laser, it is important to tie the clew down, otherwise it rides up, which makes the sail harder to handle when sailing. Special fixtures can be purchased for just this situation; however, as an alternative, thread a short piece of line through the clew of the sail and wrap this twice around the boom before tying both ends together with a reef knot (see page 29).

Clew outhaul will rise up if not restrained

Tie the clew to the boom

Sail battens

Most mainsails have fibreglass battens that are inserted into the trailing edge or leech of the sail. These are designed to stop the leech flapping. Your mainsail may have three or more battens of different lengths and each are inserted into elasticated pockets that are built into the sail.

To check you have the right one, lay the batten on the surface of the sail. Note that the curved end of the batten is the end to be inserted first.

Once you have identified the correct batten for the pocket, push it into the sail.

Keep pushing until you reach the end; then ease the batten so that it pops back into the sealed pocket on the sail.

1 Lay batten on sail before inserting it into the pocket to make sure it is the right one

2 Insert curved tip of batten into pocket opening

3 Continue pushing the batten in until the end is reached

4 Push into the elasticated pocket

5 Batten will sit in sealed part of the pocket

Rudder

If you have a lifting rudder, fit it to the stern of the boat with the blade raised and make sure the safety clip is secured.

Ensure safety clip is fixed to the rudder assembly

This prevents the rudder from falling off in the event of capsizing. For more details on the rudder assembly, refer to the chapter on know your boat, page 9.

De-rigging

This is basically the reverse of the rigging process. When the sails are lowered, be careful to keep them off the ground to stop them getting muddy.

Store the sails in a sailbag to keep them clean in storage

Sails are either folded in a series of large flakes or rolled up from the head. This depends on the structure of the sail cloth and whether sail battens are left permanently in the sail. Try to dry any sails that are wet by hanging them in a suitably large place if you can.

For storage, return the sails to the sail bags and keep in a dry place.

REEFING

Reefing is the procedure that allows you to reduce the amount of sail area. The smaller sail is easier to handle in stronger winds

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Introduction

Reefing is the process that allows you to reduce the amount of sail area by either folding or rolling the sail. Having a smaller sail will enable you to control the boat without being overpowered in stronger winds. While you are learning how to sail, it is better to do things slowly under control rather than fight with an overpowered boat. With a reefed sail, you will be able to focus on your sailing skills yet still be able to experience the pleasure of sailing in strong winds. You will probably find that you will end up sailing faster, capsize less and have a more enjoyable time with a reefed sail rather than with a full-sized sail.

Reefing reduces the sail area of the mainsail

Each reef takes out approximately 20 per cent of the sail area. The more you take out, the more controllable the boat becomes in a strong wind. You should judge for yourself as to whether you need to apply a second or even third reef. If you need to make additional reefs, just repeat the process described below.

Reefing is best done before you depart

Reefing is best done ashore before you leave the beach or pontoon and, if in doubt, put a reef in before you go out.

Single person sail before and after

Reefing an unstayed single person boat

Let’s look first at reefing a single person boat with an unstayed mast.

1 Unclip the clew from the boom

These types of boat do not have any wire supporting rigging to hold the mast up and the sail simply wraps around the mast in the reefing process.

With the boat head to wind, the first step is to release the clew outhaul from the end of the boom. It is important to keep hold of the sail because if you don’t, there is a risk the flapping sail could hit you in the face.

Once you have the clew, walk towards the bow of the boat taking the sail with you.

2 Release the clew tie down

When you get to the mast, simply wrap the whole sail around the mast for one complete revolution. Each turn reduces the sail area by approximately 20 per cent, so keep reducing the sail area until you are comfortable with the size of sail.

3 Grab hold of sail, being careful the flapping sail does not hit you

Take the clew of the sail back towards the end of the boom in preparation for reconnecting it to the boom.

4 Pick up clew of mainsail

Release and extend the outhaul line and reconnect this to the clew of the sail. Note that you may need to fit a short extension if the outhaul is not long enough.

Reconnect the clew, tie down and finally pull the clew outhaul back tight.

5 Reconnect clew, tie down and outhaul

TOP TIP

With the sail reefed, the outhaul rope from the end of the boom to the clew of the sail will be long. This will mean that the sail will ride up above the boom when sailing and will be difficult to control. To prevent this, ensure that the clew is tied to the boom with a strap or rope.

6 Pull the clew outhaul tight

Reefing a two person boat

Two person boats usually have wire rigging to support the mast. This will prevent you from wrapping the sail around the mast to reef.

Boats fitted with shrouds should use slab reefing

The process for reefing a two person boat is called slab reefing, where ‘slabs’ of the mainsail are folded from the bottom or foot of the sail.

Cruising sails will have two or sometimes three reefing points to allow different amounts of sail to be taken out. Each reef will take away approximately 20 per cent of the sail area.

Slab reefing is where folds of sail are taken from the foot

Most mainsails have more than one reefing point

The reefing line is the main control line for the reefing process. This line has two ends, one at the mast end of the boom and the second at the outer edge of the boom. A pulley system threaded inside the boom allows the line to be pulled tight from a third point, as shown in steps 16 and 17.

Reefing line has one end at the mast end of the boom

TOP TIP

Practice reefing ashore until you are completely familiar with the steps involved. This will help you understand what to do should you have to reef unexpectedly when sailing.

Reefing line extends to outer end of the boom

Getting started

The first step is to park the boat head to wind and rig the full sail. The reason for this is that the foot of the sail can easily become disconnected during the reefing process and flap around above your head when sailing. Rigging the full sail with both the tack and clew ends of the mainsail secured will help prevent this.

1 Start with fully rigged sail

Next, release the reefing line from its jam cleat on the boom and pull all the slack through.

2 Release the reefing line from the mast end of the boom

To make the process simpler, you can release the main halyard and part lower the sail. This will make it easier to reach the reefing points on the sail.

Then thread the mast end of the reefing line through to the desired reefing point.

3 Release the main halyard

4 Part lower the mainsail

5 Pull slack and thread through reefing point on sail

Pass the line between the sail and the kicking strap (if your boat has a kicking strap that pushes the boom down – see page 23). Note that if you go outside the kicking strap, the reef will not be completed properly.

6 Pass back through the sail and go UNDER the kicking strap

Take the line back to the boom and secure it with a bowline knot around the gooseneck (see knots chapter on page 27).

Next, go to the clew end of the boom and pull the slack out of the reefing line.

Thread the reefing line though the holes in the back edge or leech of the sail until you come to your desired reefing point.

7 Tie reefing line back to boom with bowline knot

8 Pull reefing line out from boom

Note that there could be several holes before the reinforced clew reefing point is reached.

9 Thread through the holes in the sail

Thread the line through this new clew and return the line to the boom.

Most boats have a loose fitted mainsail so it is best to tie the reefing line to the boom using a bowline knot around the boom (see page 31). The reason for this is that when the reefing line is tensioned, the clew of the sail is held tightly to the boom. This makes the sail easier to control.

10 Continue threading until desired reefing point is reached

11 Tie reefing line back to boom with bowline around the boom

12 Pull the reefing line

Return to the mast end of the boom and start to pull the reefing line tight.

13 Continue to pull until the reefing point is in line with the boom

You may need to release the main halyard in small amounts; continue at the same time to pull the reefing line until the desired reefing point is just above the boom.

When this point is reached, pull the main halyard tight again to make sure the sail is in the correct position.

To finish off, you will need to tidy up the reefing line to stop it getting tangled.

The sail may be fitted with reefing ties and these should be tied with a reef knot (see knots chapter on page 27).

14 Gather up the surplus folds of the sail

If it is particularly windy, you may need to repeat this process with the second reef in the mainsail.

15 Tidy up the loose folds and secure with reefing ties

Practise your technique

As mentioned, it is best to reef in advance of going afloat, but you should practise reefing afloat in controlled conditions. This will help you to identify what to do for real should the need arise

Practise reefing afloat by adopting the hove to position

For example, you may go day sailing on a nice sunny day when the wind is light in the morning. In coastal waters, it is common on summer afternoons for a sea breeze to fill in. This is the effect of the sun warming the land, causing hot air to rise, with colder air rushing in from the sea to take its place. The sea breeze can increase the wind dramatically, which may mean you need to reef whilst afloat, so having practised in light winds you should know what to do.

Helmsman steers and steadies the boat while the crew reefs the sail

Reefing when afloat is best done from the hove to position on a close reach point of sailing. Ask the crew to pull the jib across onto the wrong side whilst you steer a steady course.

For more information on how to heave-to read your first sail chapter on page 169.

When in the hove to position, the boom will flutter out of the way to one side of the boat. The crew then carries out the reefing procedure as described above.

POINTS OF SAILING

A boat can sail in many directions relative to the wind. Understanding which one to use is an important skill to learn

What is a point of sailing?

The term ‘points of sailing’ refers to each point that a boat can sail relative to where the wind is blowing from. This chapter will help you to understand what the different points of sailing are.

Use masthead burgee to see where the wind is coming from

It is very important to be aware of where the wind is coming from at all times as this is fundamental to everything that you will do in the boat. Once you have learned to easily identify the wind direction, understanding what to do with the sails will become second nature. The wind is the fuel that drives the boat and the sails are the engine that should be tuned for optimum performance.

Flags ashore also indicate wind direction

To help you recognise where the wind is blowing from you can use a masthead burgee, if you have one, which will point towards the wind. Flags ashore are another indicator as they simply flutter in line with the wind, or ripples and waves on the water also move in the direction of the wind. Alternatively, when afloat, you can release the sails fully and they will flap like a flag, identifying the direction of the wind.

Ripples or waves on the water move in the same direction as the wind

A flapping sail acts like a flag and can be used to help identify where the wind is blowing from

Also bear in mind that the wind regularly changes direction (called wind shift), usually by no more than 10 degrees. This is particularly noticeable when sailing on the close-hauled point of sailing.

When the wind is on the left-hand side, the boat is on port tack

Any point of sailing where the boat has the wind on its left-hand side is called sailing on port. Any point of sailing where the wind is blowing from the right-hand side is called sailing on starboard. Each point of sailing can be achieved on either port or starboard tack. Remember that the boat will turn very quickly with even the smallest amount of rudder/tiller movement, and to optimise good performance the sails need to be either pulled in or released every time the course is changed.

When the wind is on the right-hand side, the boat is on starboard tack

To sail effectively you need to harness the power of the wind and adjust the settings of the sails and centreboard to suit the point of sailing you are on. It is vital to remember that as your boat turns even by a small amount, the point of sailing will alter. For more information on this read the key factors chapter on page 105.

Boat close reaching with sails correctly adjusted

TOP TIP

It is very easy to get disorientated when sailing a dinghy, so take note of a fixed landmark and keep looking outside the boat to see where the wind is blowing from.

How a sail works

Harnessing the wind efficiently is important if you want to sail effectively. A sail works in the same way as an aircraft wing, with wind travelling across both sides of it. The wind on the leeward side of the boat, ie, the side of the boom, opposite where you should be sitting, will be travelling faster than the wind on the windward side, ie, the side you should be sitting on, closest to the wind. This imbalance of speed and pressure causes lift, which drives the boat through the water.

Air travelling on the leeward side of sail is compressed, which generates lift

No go zone

Once you have identified where the wind is blowing from, the first point to appreciate is the area called the no go zone. This is an area that is 45 degrees either side of the line down which the wind is blowing. In the no go zone the sails don’t work. You should try to avoid accidentally sailing into this zone as the sails will mimic a flag and flap uncontrollably above your head, bringing your boat to a stop.

Keep clear of the no go zone as the sails don’t work

You can sail in any other direction (point of sailing) apart from straight into the wind, ie, into the no go zone. Your wind awareness will help you to keep a constant eye on where the no go zone is.

Close-hauled

The closest angle you can sail to the wind is on the edge of the no go zone. This point of sailing is called close-hauled. You should have the sails pulled in tight with the centreboard pushed fully down to prevent the boat from side slipping.

Close-hauled is the closest angle possible to sail into the wind

To maintain this point of sailing, you should continually gently probe with the tiller to find the point where the sails just start to flap and then turn it slightly the other way. Close-hauled is the point of sailing you should use if you want to sail towards the wind.

Two person boat close-hauled. Both sails are pulled in tight and boom is over corner of boat

Keep probing the edge of the no go zone to maintain the close-hauled point of sail

If your destination is straight into the wind, you will be unable to get there directly so you will need to keep switching from one side of the no go zone to the other. This manoeuvre is called tacking and a series of tacks is called beating. Read the chapter on tacking on page 183 for more information on this.

A series of tacks together with close-hauled sailing is called beating

Note Close-hauled is the only point of sailing where the boat is steered to find the point where the sails flap. The sails are pulled in hard and the boat is steered gently until they flutter. On all other points of sailing, the boat is steered to a constant heading and the sails are adjusted to find the point where they stop flapping.

Close-hauled sailing

TOP TIP

The wind rarely blows in a consistent direction for more than a few minutes. It is continually shifting. You must look out for these changes of direction by finding the point where the sail just starts to flutter. This ensures that the sail has optimum performance.

Close-hauled often calls for vigorous hiking to balance the boat

Reaching

Reaching is the term used for any point of sailing where the boat is sailing generally across the wind. It covers any angle between 60 and 120 degrees from the direction from which the wind is blowing.

Close reach point of sailing. Ease mainsheet and raise centreboard slightly

Close reach

The first reaching point to learn is the close reach. This point of sailing is approximately 60 degrees off the wind. Turn to this direction, and release the sails slightly until they just start to flutter. Then pull them back in so they stop flapping at the luff (leading edge) and raise the centreboard or daggerboard about a quarter up.

Beam reach point of sailing – boom is 45 degrees to side of boat and centreboard is half way up

Beam reach

Next is the beam reach. Here you will be sailing at 90 degrees to the wind. A beam reach is the best point of sailing for your first sail as the sails and the boat are easily controlled and you are well away from the no go zone. Turn to this position and adjust the sails as before. You should also raise the centreboard here so it is about half way up.

Bird’s eye view of two person boat on beam reach

Single person boat on beam reach. Note daggerboard is half raised

Keep adjusting the mainsheet to find the point where the luff of the sail just stops flapping.

Broad reach point of sailing – boom is eased approximately 60 degrees to the side and centreboard is about two-thirds up

Broad reach

Another point of sailing is the broad reach. Here you will start to sail slightly away from the wind and be sailing at around 120 degrees off the wind. Release and adjust the sails to find the point where they stop fluttering and raise the centreboard so it’s about two-thirds of the way up.

Running

We now come onto the running points of sailing. Running is when the boat is sailing away from the direction the wind is blowing from. On these points of sailing the wind simply pushes the boat along.

Training run reduces the chance of boom accidentally flicking across the boat

Training run

The first running point is called a training run. Here you will be pointing almost directly away from the wind, sailing at an angle of about 150 degrees off the wind.

Release the mainsail so the boom is almost at 90 degrees to the boat, and the centreboard should be about three-quarters of the way up. The only exception to altering the centreboard position is when sailing with an asymmetric spinnaker. Here it is more usual to keep the centreboard fully lowered when sailing on a reach or running point of sailing. For more information on this refer to the asymmetric spinnaker chapter on page 229. If sailing a two person boat, the crew releases the jib.

Single person boat on training run. Boom is 90 degrees to the side of the boat

When learning, the training run is the best point of sailing if you want to sail away from the wind, as there is less risk of the boom accidentally flipping across, which is called gybing. (To learn how to gybe read the chapter on gybing on page 213).

Dead run is sailing directly away from the wind. Be careful of the wind accidentally flicking the boom across

Dead run

The second running point and the final point of sailing is a dead run. This is when the boat is pointing directly away from the wind. While you are learning, this point of sailing is probably best avoided until your wind awareness has developed. It is very easy for the wind to suddenly catch the wrong side of the sail, which can cause the boom to flick across the boat extremely fast and capsize you.

Key learning points

- Wind awareness is a key skill to develop, as the boat’s angle to the wind is fundamental to everything that happens on board.

- The no go zone is an area of about 45 degrees either side of where the wind is blowing from and the boat will have no forward drive in this zone. You MUST understand where the no go zone is relative to your boat at all times and be sure to keep out of the zone.

- Close-hauled is on the edge of the no go zone. Sails are pulled in fully and the centreboard is pushed fully down.

- Close reach is approximately 20 degrees away from the close-hauled point of sailing. Sails are set so they just stop flapping. Raise the centreboard a quarter of the way up.

- Beam reach is about 90 degrees to the wind. Release the boom so it’s approximately 45 degrees over the side of the boat and the sails don’t flap. The centreboard should be half way up.

- Broad reach is about 120 degrees to the wind. Sails are set so they are just not flapping. The centreboard is about two-thirds up.

- A training run is a further 30 degrees away from a broad reach. The boom is almost 90 degrees to the boat and the centreboard is three-quarters of the way up.

- Dead run is sailing directly away from the wind. The boom is 90 degrees to the boat and the centreboard stays at three-quarters up.

- You must understand and establish where the wind is blowing from, and adjust your sails and centreboard to suit each point of sailing.

Good wind awareness helps you to identify the correct point of sailing and what that means for the settings

KEY FACTORS

There are several different factors that work together to allow the boat to sail. Working together correctly optimises performance

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Introduction

There are several key factors that affect how a sailing dinghy performs. To get the best performance out of your boat and maximise your enjoyment, it is important to understand what these factors are, how to spot them and how, as one changes, it impacts on the others. They are all of equal importance.

Sailing boats are affected by several key factors for efficient sailing

To fully understand what the key factors are you must first be familiar with the points of sailing that a dinghy can achieve. Points of sailing are the descriptions given to the direction the boat sails relative to where the wind is blowing from. Please read the points of sailing chapter on page 95 for more information on this.

Pay attention to all factors

As one factor changes, there is a knock on effect on the others

Key factors apply on all points of sail

The key factors apply to all sailing craft, whether they are a single person or a two person boat. Correct understanding of them allows you to develop good sailing habits, which in time will become second nature. You should keep thinking about these key factors at all times when afloat and remember that as one factor changes there is a knock on effect on the others, so be prepared to make adjustments all round.

Boat planing under the spinnaker

The key factors are:

WIND awareness

SAIL setting

Boat BALANCE

Boat TRIM

COURSE sailed

CENTREBOARD position

Correct sail settings are needed on all points of sailing

Good balance techniques are needed

Factor one: Wind awareness

This is the only key factor that is outside the boat. Wind awareness is a vital skill to develop and forms the basis of absolutely everything that happens aboard your boat.

Use a flapping sail as another wind indicator

Being able to identify where the wind is blowing from and understanding where that point is as you change course is arguably the hardest element to learn. It is important to master this as it allows you to easily identify the correct point of sailing and helps you to decide what that means to all the other key factors.

Wind has no go zone in which boat can’t sail

To help you spot where the wind is blowing from use masthead burgees, flags or ripples on the water (see points of sailing chapter, page 95 for more information on this).

A flapping sail is your biggest wind indicator. Release the control sheets and let the sail flap. It will act just like a flag and will lie in the same direction that the wind is blowing. As a further aid you can also tie strips of wool to the wire shrouds, if your boat has shrouds. These will stream out in the direction that the wind is travelling.

When boat points head to wind the sails simply flap

No go zone

The no go zone is described in detail in the points of sailing chapter on page 95. Once you have developed good wind awareness, the next step is to learn to identify this zone.

You should try to keep well clear of the no go zone at all times unless you intend to turn the boat around by tacking across the wind. (See the chapter on tacking, page 183 for how to do this).

Familiarise yourself with where the wind is blowing from

Wind strength

Wind strength is an important consideration. Think of the wind as the fuel for the boat. If you have too much, it will be hard to control the boat. You should only go sailing if you are confident that you can control your boat in the prevailing conditions. Being overpowered can be hazardous and tiring, so it is best to limit your development to days when the wind is within your capabilities.

Gusts of wind appear as darker patches on the water

The wind often comes in gusts. When sailing along, you should keep a lookout for these gusts of wind as they approach the boat. They often appear as darker patches on the water and can move across the water quickly. Spotting these patches is a good skill to learn, as you will be able to anticipate the need to spill wind from the sail by releasing the mainsheet, if required, when the gust of wind hits. This will reduce the number of capsizes you are likely to have.

Flags on a fair weather day

Factor two: Sail setting

Sails are your engine, accelerator and brake all in one, so it is important to have them set properly to ensure you stay in control and maximise your speed.

Boats can sail anywhere other than in the no go zone

As we have explained, the sail will work on any point of sail that is outside the no go zone.

Control sheet

The most obvious sail control is the rope that pulls the sail in and out. This is called a sheet. For the mainsail there is a mainsheet and on a two person boat a jib sheet.

Control sheets pull the sails in and out

Each point of sail requires different settings to these sheets.

The trick is to find the point when the sail just stops flapping.

Release the sail until it starts to flap

Pull sails in until they stop flapping

On a single person boat the helmsman releases the mainsheet until the front edge or luff of the sail starts to flap. This is called backwinding.

Sail flaps just behind mast on single person dinghies

When this point is reached, he pulls the sail back in until it stops flapping. The last part of the sail to fill with wind is the part just behind the mast.

Correct mainsheet tension shows full sail

Pull sails in until they don’t flap. This is the optimum position

Release the jibsheet and mainsheet until they flap

Ease mainsheet so boom is 45 degrees out on a beam reach

On a two person boat the helmsman does the same, with the crew adjusting the jib to find the point where the jib just stops to flap.

Ease mainsheet so boom is almost 90 degrees out on a training run

As the boat turns onto alternative points of sailing, the control sheets should be adjusted. On a beam reach the mainsheet should be released so that the boom sits approximately 45 degrees over the side of the boat.

When on a training run, the boom is released further so it is approaching 90 degrees to the boat.

Telltales stream evenly when the sail is correctly set

Telltales

Telltales are small strips of lightweight fabric or wool, which are stuck to both sides of the sail, normally about six inches inside the luff of the sail. These can be on the mainsail on a single person boat and on the jib on a two person boat.

Telltales help you set the sheet tension and the aim is to keep them streaming evenly on both sides of the sail.

Two person boats have telltales on the jib

Telltales react before the sail starts to flap and respond to subtle amounts of controlled sheet movement.

If the sail is pulled in too tight for your particular point of sail, the outer telltale will flap and stall. If you see this, simply release the sheet until the telltale streams. If you go too far or if the control sheet is too loose, the sail will probably be flapping. Here pull the sheet in until it stops flapping and then make smaller adjustments to ensure the telltale streams evenly.

Bird’s eye view of single person boat close-hauled

Remember – for the best setting for the sail, release the sheet to let the sail out until it flaps, and then pull the sheet back in slightly to stop the sail flapping.

Close-hauled sail setting

Sailing close-hauled is the only point of sailing where things are different. Here the sails are pulled in tight, with the boom over the corner of the boat, and the boat is steered to find the point where the sails start to flap. This ensures that you remain on the edge of the no go zone – see page 98.

Bird’s eye view of two person boat sailing close-hauled

On a single person boat, steer the boat to find the point where the mainsail starts to backwind.

Boom is over corner of boat

On a two person boat, you are looking for the point where the leading edge of the jib starts to backwind.

Jib starts to backwind as boat enters no go zone

When either of these points are reached, simply bear away from the wind by pulling the tiller away from the boom in very small amounts until the sail fills evenly.

TOP TIP

When sailing close-hauled, remember to keep the tiller movements small, and keep probing in small amounts until you are confident that you are on the edge of the no go zone.

Jib pops into shape when out of no go zone

Use small tiller movements to steer close-hauled

Overpowered

Close-hauled is the point of sailing that you are most likely to become overpowered. The reason for this is that, with the sails pulled in closer to the centreline of the boat, there is a large sideways force that will try to tip the boat over at its narrowest point.

As gusts of wind hit, ease the mainsheet

The tipping effect is called heeling and when you feel this, release the mainsheet a little.

This frees off the mainsail and dumps some of the power. Consequently, the front edge (luff) of the sail will start to flap and backwind, and the boat should return to a more upright position. This is the only occasion when a flapping sail at the luff edge is acceptable.

Wind tries to knock the boat over most when close-hauled

Gusts can suddenly hit you, so always hold the mainsheet so that you can release the sail quickly

Single person dinghy hit by sudden gust

Other sail controls

There are a few other sail controls that relate to sail setting and are important to understand how to use. These are:

Picture on left shows correct outhaul tension

Clew outhaul

The clew outhaul is the control line that pulls the bottom edge or foot of the sail along the boom. This is connected to the clew (bottom, aft corner) of the sail.

The clew outhaul needs to be reasonably tight. As a rough guide, pull it out so that at the mid point of the boom you have approximately 5cm of curve in the sail. This will provide the maximum drive in the sail.

Kicking strap that PULLS the boom down

If the wind is stronger, you can pull this tighter to reduce the curve in the lower part of the sail. This depowers the sail slightly and helps you to keep control in the gusts.

Kicking strap (or vang)

The kicking strap or vang is the control that, when tight, prevents the boom from rising when the mainsheet is released. It controls the tension on the trailing edge or leech of the sail and is mainly used when sailing on the close-hauled point of sailing, particularly when windy. It should, however, be eased slightly when bearing away from the wind onto a reaching or running point of sail – see page 23.

Kicking strap that PUSHES boom down

The kicking strap can be configured to either pull the boom down or push the boom down. Whatever system your boat has, the effect is the same. The boom is prevented from rising when the mainsheet is released.

Kicking strap controls leech tension. Correct tension is on the left

If the kicking strap is too slack when the mainsheet is released, the boom rises, allowing more curve along the leech, which in turn makes the boat harder to control.

When the kicking strap is tight, as the mainsheet is released the leech of the sail is held more rigidly and the whole sail moves out as if it were a flat board. This makes the boat easier to control.

Cunningham eyelet by mast

The best way to set the kicking strap for the close-hauled point of sailing is to first pull the mainsheet in hard so the boom is positioned over the corner of the boat and then take all the slack out of the kicking strap control line.

When you turn away from the close-hauled point of sailing, try to remember to release the kicking strap by a few centimetres. This opens up the leech of the sail, which will generate a little more power in the sail.

When tensioned, this subtle control makes the boat easier to sail in windy conditions

Cunningham or downhaul

The final control line to understand is the Cunningham or downhaul. This is a control line that loops through a reinforced eyelet just above the boom at the mast end of the boom.

It pulls the leading edge of the sail down a little and has a subtle effect on the top part of the leech of the mainsail. The downhaul should only be used in stronger winds as it depowers the sail slightly.

TOP TIP

Try to remember the settings you use each time for the clew outhaul, kicking strap and Cunningham, and judge the performance of the boat. Different wind strengths need different settings. To help you remember what works for you, stick numbered adhesive strips as a measuring tool for each control.

To start with, this control is hard to identify so don’t worry too much about it; all you need to know is that the stronger the wind is, the more you pull it.

Factor three: Boat balance

The next key factor is balance of the boat. You should aim to sail the boat as flat as you can. This is easy to say but hard to achieve. The reason for this is that fundamentally sailboats sail best when they are level in the water with little or no heel. It is often more comfortable to sit on a heeling boat but it is a bad habit. Try to imagine there is a spirit level running sideways across the boat.

When flat, the underwater profile of the boat is symmetrical

When the boat is flat, the waterline shape is symmetrical and the centreboard sits in the middle of this underwater profile.

When heeled, the underwater shape is distorted

When the boat heels over, it distorts the underwater shape, forcing the boat to turn towards the wind.

To keep sailing in a straight line, you will need to apply the rudder to counter this turning force. This creates drag and will slow you down. In some cases the rudder will stall and steering will be lost.

So when you feel the boat being overpowered by a gust of wind, you should ease the mainsheet so the leading edge of the mainsail backwinds. This reduces the effectiveness of the sail and the boat should become level once more.

Uneven hull shape forces the boat to turn towards the wind, which is corrected by rudder, therefore causing drag

TOP TIP

Try to keep the boat flat at all times. This will reduce the amount of rudder that needs to be applied to keep sailing straight. Remember, a rudder is a good brake!

Lean out to balance the boat

To help balance the boat you can also lean out, using the toe straps to take your weight. These are strong fabric straps permanently rigged to the boat, under which you hook your feet. If you are sailing a two person boat, try to work as a team and be sure to use the toe straps.

Use toe straps to help lean out

Some performance boats have a trapeze for the crew. Here the crew wears a harness with a hook that clips onto an extra wire running parallel to the shroud of the boat. With his weight supported by this wire and harness, the crew then steps onto the side of the boat and pushes out to lie flat. This gets his centre of gravity further out from the boat, which combats the tipping effect of the stronger wind.

Try to keep the boat flat at all times

Be aware that the wind has a habit of wavering in direction and altering in strength as gusts of wind come and go. You must constantly move your weight in and out to balance the boat, which is great exercise.

A well balanced single person boat

Factor four: Boat trim

The next factor is boat trim. In simple terms trim is the amount of fore and aft tilt on the boat. If you sit too far back, the rear of the boat, which is called the transom, goes below the water. This upsets the underwater shape of the boat and increases the amount of drag, which therefore slows you down.

Sitting too far back causes drag

When learning how to sail, people often sit too far back and hold the tiller rather than the tiller extension. This may feel more comfortable but is another bad habit. You should practise using the tiller extension at all times, which also encourages you to sit forward.

Sit well forward and hold tiller extension

Sitting forward keeps transom clear of water

Sitting too far backwards buries transom in water, causing drag

The only exception to this is when you are more advanced and sailing perhaps with a spinnaker. The boat is then subject to different forces and can easily adopt a condition called planing, which is sailing at its fastest.

Only sit at the back of the boat when planing is possible

In this situation, the power of the wind lifts the nose of the boat clear of the water, leaving just the rear section of the boat in contact with the water, and the speed rises dramatically. This usually happens on the reaching points of sailing when a gust hits. When you feel the gust hit, slide your weight back a little to promote planing.

During planing boat speed is dramatically increased

Factor five: Course sailed

The next factor is course sailed. Your aim is to sail on the best or shortest course possible for your intended destination.

Pick target destination and always sail towards it

It is very easy to get distracted and disorientated when sailing and not pay correct attention to where you are actually trying to sail to.

Keep looking out of the boat to check you are still sailing in the right direction and pick a point on the shore as your reference, adjusting your steering to maintain a course to that point.

If you are sailing close-hauled, pull the sails in tight and steer the boat to find the edge of the no go zone. This will ensure you sail the shortest distance upwind in a series of small steps rather than going backwards and forwards on a series of tight reaches that feel fast but won’t be making much headway towards your destination.

Keep your head out of the boat to see where you are going

Wind shifts

The wind rarely blows in a consistent direction for longer than a couple of minutes. This is particularly noticeable on a close-hauled point of sailing when the no go zone shifts as the wind changes.

Pick a landmark and aim towards it

When sailing close-hauled, it is a combination of reading these small wind shifts and looking out for your landmark that allows you to sail upwind in the most efficient manner.

Factor six: Centreboard position

The final factor is centreboard position. The centreboard is the large plate located in the middle of the boat, which can either slide up or down or pivot around a pin. It is stored inside the hull of the boat.

Centreboard can slide up and down . . .

The purpose of the centreboard is to stop the boat slipping sideways, particularly on the close-hauled point of sailing. When close-hauled, most of the energy from the wind will try to blow the boat sideways. To reduce this, push the centreboard fully down.

As you progressively bear away from the wind, the direction of this force moves more towards the direction of travel of the boat. This means less sideways force is in play.

On a beam reach the centreboard should be half way up and on a training run approximately three quarters up.

. . . or pivot around a pin

The reason for this is that the centreboard has a large surface area in contact with the water when fully down, which introduces a fair amount of drag that slows the boat down. As the driving force of the wind moves forward while the boat bears away from the wind, the requirement to prevent sideways slip is reduced. You can therefore lessen the drag by raising the centreboard.

Centreboard reduces sideways slip when sailing close-hauled

As boat bears away from wind, sideways force moves forward, meaning less centreboard is needed (less drag)

A common trap is to leave the centreboard in one fixed position for all points of sailing.

Remember that when the sails are pulled in, push the centreboard down, and when the sails are out, take the centreboard up by the correct amount.

Key learning points

All the key factors are equally important. You must develop an understanding and pay attention to all of them at all times. Bear in mind that nothing stays the same for long. As one factor changes there is a knock on effect with all of the others. This is particularly prevalent when you change from one point of sailing to another. The factors are:

- Wind awareness Understanding where the wind is blowing from is the basis of all activities afloat. Use burgees, flags, flapping sails or ripples on the water to tell you where the wind is coming from.

Keep an eye on the water for gusts of wind and take appropriate action to prevent capsizing by either balancing the boat or sail setting. Beware too of the no go zone; see page 98 for more information on this.

- Sail setting If the sails are too tight or too slack, the boat will slow down.

For optimum speed, release the sail until it just

starts to flap and then tighten it again until it just stops flapping.

Pull the clew outhaul so there is a maximum 5cm curve in the sail at the mid point of the boom.

Use the kicking strap when sailing upwind, particularly when windy. Pull on the Cunningham or downhaul progressively as the wind starts to overpower the boat.

- Boat balance For optimum speed your boat should be flat in the water. Use your weight to balance the boat and be prepared to release the mainsheet to keep the boat flat.

You may need to move your weight quickly if the wind gusts or drops suddenly.

- Boat trim This is the amount of fore or aft tilt the boat has in the water. Make sure you use the tiller extension to control the rudder. This will ensure that you sit well forward.

- Course sailed Sail the shortest distance to your intended destination. Keep looking out of the boat to check you are still sailing where you need to get to.

- Centreboard position The centreboard stops the boat slipping sideways when sailing close-hauled but does also introduce drag. When close-hauled, the centreboard should be fully down. On a beam reach it should be about half way up and on a training run about three quarters up.

BEACH LAUNCHING AND RECOVERY

Correct launching and recovery will avoid damage to the boat or injury to yourself

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Dinghies can be sailed in a variety of locations – on lakes, rivers and coastal waters. Launching and recovery is an important element to master as it is easy to damage a boat or cause injury if done incorrectly.

This chapter looks at how to launch and return to a beach. The main difference between beach launching and pontoon launching (see page 149) is that it is normal to hoist the sails on the beach before the boat is put into the water.

The basic principles apply to both single person and two person dinghies. With a single person dinghy, you will need to find assistance from a friend or fellow sailor to park and retrieve your trolley.

Beach launching

Before launching, first you need to establish the direction the wind is blowing from. To help you judge where the wind is coming from you can use a masthead burgee, which will point towards the wind. Other useful indicators can be flags ashore or ripples on the water, which move in the same direction as the wind.

Identify where the wind is blowing from

TOP TIP

When launching, you must ensure that you do not sail straight into the path of another sailing vessel or, worse still, anyone who may be swimming nearby. Take a good look around before you leave the beach.

When learning, try to avoid launching if there are big waves, as they can easily knock the boat over when you leave the beach. If you are sailing in coastal regions, you must establish what time high water is as the tide may come in during your sail.

Beach launches usually hoist sail before launching

Tidal information is available online, in your local press or via mobile applications.

A seaweed mark on the beach is a good indication of where the water can rise to. It is important to put anything you intend to leave on the beach above the high water mark to ensure it is still there on your return.

Float the boat off the trolley

There are three main wind directions on a beach that you need to consider. These are onshore winds, which blow onto the beach, cross shore winds, which blow parallel to the beach, and offshore winds, which blow away from the beach.

Ask a friend or fellow sailor to park the trolley above the high water line on the beach

Cross shore wind blows parallel to beach

Offshore winds blow away from the beach

Onshore wind blows onto the beach

Regardless of the wind direction, in all beach launches you should position your boat on its trolley, with the bow of the boat pointing towards the wind.

Position boat on the beach so the bow is pointing into the wind

Rig and hoist the sails. Make sure the mainsheet and kicking strap are completely slack to allow the boom to flutter in the wind, which keeps the sail loose and unpowered, preventing the boat from blowing off the trolley accidentally.

For more details on how to hoist the sails, refer to the rigging chapter on page 63.

Fit the rudder, securing the safety pin, and ensure all drainage bungs are in place to stop the buoyancy tanks from filling with water when afloat.

Rig the sails on the beach. Ensure kicking strap is slack

Fit the rudder

Ensure safety clip for the rudder is fitted and check all drainage bungs are fitted

Onshore wind

This is where the wind is blowing onto the beach. Sometimes called a lee shore, it is the hardest beach to launch from as the wind will always try to blow you back ashore.

Onshore wind blows onto the beach

In this situation, when you face the water you should feel the wind blowing onto your face.

With the sails hoisted, introduce the boat to the water, keeping the bow head to wind. This will keep the sails flapping and make manoeuvring easy.

Continue walking the boat into the water until it floats off the trolley.

1 Walk boat bow first into water

Single person beach launching

If sailing a single person dinghy, it is possible for one person to hold two boats whilst the other parks both trolleys ashore.

2 Walk until boat floats off trolley

3 One person can hold two boats

Ensure the trolley is left above the high water mark, which is usually indicated by a line of seaweed on the beach.

4 Park trolley above seaweed mark

Lean into the boat and push the centreboard down, but just a little to avoid it hitting the bottom when in shallow water.

Next push the rudder blade down a few inches to allow the tip of the blade to make contact with the water.

Finally, grab the tiller extension and mainsheet; you are now ready to go. Take one last look around to check the area is clear.

5 Insert the centreboard, but only slightly to keep it from hitting the bottom

6 Lower tip of rudder blade into the water

7 Grab tiller extension and check area is clear

With the bow of the boat pointing head to wind, you will be in the centre of the no go zone and unable to sail. To get going, push the boat clear of the no go zone onto a close reach point of sailing, with the sails still flapping.

8 Leave the beach on a close reach point of sailing

Make sure you push the boat so you end up on the side opposite the boom. This makes it easier to climb aboard.

If you push the boat the other way and end up under the boom, there is a good chance you will capsize the boat as you climb in!

9 Close reach keeps you well clear of the no go zone

Climb aboard and gently pull in the mainsail a little bit to get moving, but as the rudder isn’t fully down you should leave the beach slowly and steering should feel very heavy.

10 Climb aboard holding the tiller extension

11 Sail away slowly

Once you are in an adequate depth of water, you can lower the rudder blade. This is best done with the boat stationary. Release the mainsheet so that the sail flaps to stop the boat, and lower the rudder blade fully. Then secure the downhaul rope to keep it in position.

12 Lower rudder fully only when water is deep enough

Finally, lower the centreboard to suit your point of sailing, pull the sail back in and sail away.

Two person beach launch

There are many similarities between launching a one person and two person boat, but having another pair of hands makes things slightly easier.

1 Boats parked with the bow head to wind

Park the boat on the beach, with the bow head to wind. Hoist the sails and ensure the mainsheet and kicking strap are loose. Fit the rudder and check the drainage bungs are in place. For more information on rigging the sails, refer to the rigging chapter on page 63.

Walk the boat into the water, keeping the bow head to wind.

2 A slack mainsheet and kicking strap allow the mainsail to flutter in the wind

Float the boat off the trolley and ask the crew to park this above the high water mark.

3 Keeping the boat head to wind, walk into the water

When the crew returns, he holds the boat whilst you climb aboard. When aboard, lower the centreboard and rudder blade slightly to allow you to sail to deeper water but without touching the bottom.

4 Crew parks trolley whilst the helmsman holds the boat

TOP TIP

Remember to keep your weight close to the centerline of the boat as you move about, being careful of the boom which will also be flapping above your head.

5 Trolleys parked above the high water mark

6 Lower the tip of the rudder blade

Next, unfurl the jib if you haven’t done so already, keeping the bow head to wind.

7 Keep the boat head to wind until you are ready to leave

As with the single person boat, the best angle to sail away from the beach is on the close reach point of sailing, so ask the crew to turn the bow onto this point. Pick up the tiller extension and instruct the crew to climb aboard from the side opposite the boom. Sail away slowly, bearing in mind that the steering will be heavy as the rudder is still raised.

8 Once crew climbs aboard, sail away slowly

When adequate depth is reached, slow the boat by letting the sails flap and then lower the rudder. Finally lower the centreboard to suit the point of sailing you plan to use (see points of sailing chapter on page 95) and sail away.

9 Lower rudder blade and centreboard when in deep water

TOP TIP

Ensure you take a landmark on the part of the beach that you leave from. From just a few hundred metres out, it is easy to forget where you started from and where the trolley is!

Cross shore wind

A cross shore wind is where the wind is blowing parallel to the beach. This is probably the easiest beach to launch from and recover to as you simply sail straight out and in.

Cross shore wind blows parallel to the beach

On this beach, all the preparations are still done with the bow pointing head to wind, but this time the boat is parked parallel to the water.

With the bow pointing into the wind, hoist the sails, fit the rudder and check the bungs are fitted as before. Walk the boat into the water and float it off the trolley, keeping the bow head to wind.

Alternative cross shore view

As the wind is cross shore you should walk into the water at a shallow angle. This keeps the sails in the no go zone.

1 Introduce the boat into the water with bow head to wind

2 Hold the boat head to wind

Next, allow the boat to float clear of the trolley and return this to shore.

3 Turn boat onto beam reach before you climb in

Take one final check that the area is clear and then either grab the tiller extension and mainsheet, if sailing a single person dinghy, or climb aboard if sailing a two person boat.

Keep the mainsheet slack. Turn the bow of the boat out of the no go zone onto a beam reach point of sailing. The bow will now be pointing away from the beach.

As you turn the boat, climb aboard on the side opposite the boom. Pull in a small amount of sail to allow you to slowly sail away from the beach.

4 Grab the tiller extension and mainsheet before you climb aboard

As before, when the water is deep enough, release the sails so they flap and the boat slows down. Then fully lower the rudder blade, securing it in place, and lower the centreboard to suit the point of sail you intend to use and sail away.

5 Lower rudder blade when water is deep enough

Offshore wind

Here the wind is blowing away from the beach.

Offshore wind blows away from the beach

With this wind direction you must be very wary of an additional hazard. It can be deceptively sheltered on this type of beach, as the wind is blowing away from you, and the launch area is often protected by immediate buildings. It may look very flat and safe, but a short way off the shore it can be very rough.

Offshore winds are not the ideal beach to launch from as the wind will blow you away from the shore if you get into difficulty.

Offshore winds can make the sailing area look calm and sheltered

You should only launch here if you are confident in your abilities to sail back to the beach by beating; if not you will not be able to return to shore.

As with the other beaches, hoist the sails with the boat facing into the wind on the beach and then introduce the boat into the water and float it clear. Park the trolley ashore and lower the tip of the rudder and centreboard. Make sure the mainsheet and kicking strap are completely slack.

Next, turn the boat onto a beam reach, ensuring you end up on the side opposite the boom. Here the boat will be pointing parallel to the beach. Do one final check that the area is clear.

Grab the tiller extension and mainsheet and climb in, pull in the mainsheet a little and sail away. Turn the boat onto a training run to get you into deeper water. When you’ve reached the deeper water, turn the boat back into the no go zone to stop it and lower the rudder blade and centreboard to suit the point of sail you intend to use; then sail away.

Beach recovery

As with launching, the wind can be either onshore, cross shore or offshore. Whatever the wind direction, it is vital to approach the beach slowly, controlling your speed by releasing the mainsheet so the sail flaps. Keep a lookout for swimmers and other water users.

Approach the beach slowly, looking out for swimmers

When you are about 20 metres or so from the beach, you should slow the boat by letting the sails flap and half raise the rudder blade and centreboard to allow you to sail into shallower water.

Note that once the rudder blade has been raised, steering will become heavy and the boat will not manoeuvre as easily.

Half raise the rudder blade

For all beach landing, it is important to approach slowly. Control your speed by releasing the mainsheet, which will make the sails flap.

Half raise the centreboard

Approach the beach slowly

On any approach to the beach, once you reach shallow water stop the boat by deliberately turning into the no go zone and then step into the shallow water.

On the final approach prepare to stop the boat

It is your choice as to whether you lower the mainsail with the boat in the water or wait until it is lifted out. Whichever way you choose, keep the bow of the boat head to wind in the middle of the no go zone before lowering the sail.

With the mainsail lowered, disconnect the halyard and secure this to the shroud and roll the sail up from the head. If you are leaving the boat unattended for any time, it is a good idea to wrap the mainsheet around the boom to stop the wind catching the lowered sail and blowing it onto the dirty sand.

Turn into the no go zone to stop the boat

Float the boat onto the trolley and secure the painter. Walk the boat ashore, maintaining the boat head to wind if you have not already lowered the sail. When clear of the water, park the trolley above the high water mark before you leave the boat unattended, in case the tide rises while you are away.

Cross shore wind, let the sail flap as you approach the beach

If in a single person boat, release the clew of the mainsail to allow the sail to flap, and then lift the whole mast out of the boat and lay it flat on the deck of the boat.

Onshore wind

This is where the wind is blowing onto the beach. You must avoid coming ashore on a dead run as you will not be able to control your speed and the wind will simply drive you up the beach. There is also a risk that you may damage the boat.

Do not approach the beach on a dead run

The best point of sail to approach is the broad reach. This will allow you to control your speed and also turn into the no go zone and stop when you need to.

As mentioned, raise the rudder and centreboard before your final approach and control your speed.

Broad reach is best approach angle as you can slow the boat easily

Keep looking over the side of the boat into the water and try to judge when the water is shallow enough for you to stand up in it. Other sailors may also be in the area, so this is a good guide. When reached, release the mainsheet and kicking strap and turn the boat back into the no go zone to stop. You then climb into the water.

The crew should furl the jib, if sailing a two person boat, and then recover the boat onto the trolley and manoeuvre it clear of the water. In the case of a single person dinghy, ask somebody nearby to retrieve your trolley.

Finally position the boat in the centre of the no go zone to stop

An alternative recovery procedure for a two person dinghy when the wind is blowing on shore is to lower the mainsail afloat and sail in under the jib alone. To do this when the boat is about 50 metres from the shore adopt the hove-to position. Put the boat on a close reach point of sailing, ask the crew to release the jib and pull it across on the wrong side. Release the mainsheet so the mainsail flaps and half raise the centerboard. The boat should stop. With the helmsman keeping the boat steady the crew then lowers the mainsail and rolls the sail up and stores it out of the way in the boat.

With boat pointing head to wind, lower the mainsail

Turn the boat towards the shore and sail in under the jib alone. This will force your approach to be slow. When you reach shallow water, the crew hops over the side to steady the boat. The boat is then recovered onto the trolley and taken out of the water.

Roll the lowered sail up

The boat is steered to the beach under the jib alone

In shallow water the crew furls the jib and steps ashore

Cross shore wind

This is where the wind is blowing parallel to the beach. It is probably the easiest beach to land on as you simply sail straight in on a beam reach point of sail.

Cross shore wind, boat can sail straight towards the beach

Approach the beach slowly, with the rudder and centreboard half raised. When you reach shallow water, release the mainsheet and kicking strap and turn the boat into the no go zone, as already explained. Step into the shallow water, recover the trolley and take the boat out as previously shown.

Offshore wind

This is where the wind is blowing away from the shore. You will not be able to point the boat straight at the beach here as you will enter the no go zone and be blown away from the shore if you do. You should approach the beach on a close-hauled point of sailing, being careful to keep clear of the no go zone.

Approach the beach ensuring you keep out of the no go zone

As with the other beaches, when you are about 20 metres out, stop the boat by letting the sails flap and part raise the centreboard and rudder. Approach the beach slowly, keeping an eye out for swimmers.

You will still be sailing close-hauled here, but bear in mind that with the rudder blade partly raised it will become harder to steer the boat. Also note that with the centreboard half raised, the boat will make more leeway than normal, so be prepared for more sideways drift of the boat as you approach – see the key factors chapter on page 105. You may choose to plan your approach to take account of this extra leeway slip.

When the water is shallow enough, release the mainsheet and kicking strap, then step into the shallow water and recover the trolley.

Common mistakes

Launching

- Not understanding where the wind is blowing from. This would result in the boat being incorrectly positioned on the beach prior to hoisting the sails.

- Not parking the trolley above the high water mark. This may result in it floating away if the tide comes in.

- Sailing away too fast before you have put the rudder down. The boat will be hard to control.

Recovery

- Approaching on a dead run point of sailing on a lee shore. This will mean that the boat will come in too fast and you will be unable to slow down.

- Not part lifting the rudder blade and centreboard when close to the shore. This will mean you will run aground before it is shallow enough to step ashore. You also risk damage to the foils.

- Not turning into the no go zone as you step ashore. This could mean the boat will be hard to hold.

Key learning points

Launching

- Establish what time high water is.

- Establish what direction the wind is blowing from by looking at flags, burgees or ripples on the water.

- Make sure your launching area is clear of obstacles or swimmers.

- In preparation for launching, park your boat on the beach with the bow pointing towards the wind, and hoist the sails.

- When you are ready to go, introduce the boat to the water, continuing to keep the bow pointing towards the wind.

- Return the trolley to the shore above the high water seaweed mark.

- To avoid running aground whilst you sail away from the beach, lower just the tip of the rudder and centreboard.

- To sail away when the wind is onshore, use the close reach point of sailing.

- When the wind is cross shore, sail away on a beam reach.

- And when the wind is off shore, start on a beam reach and then turn to a training run.

- Sail out slowly until you are in deep water, turn back towards the no go zone and lower the rudder.

- Lower the centreboard to suit your point of sailing.

Recovery

- Identify where the wind is coming from to allow you to determine how you will approach the shore.

- When the wind is blowing onshore, approach the beach on a broad reach point of sailing.

- When the wind is blowing cross shore, approach the beach on a beam reach point of sailing.

- When the wind is blowing offshore, approach the beach on a close-hauled point of sailing, being careful to keep clear of the no go zone.

- Control your approach speed by releasing the mainsail so that it flaps.

- Part raise the rudder and centreboard to stop them hitting the bottom.

- To finally stop yourself when the water is shallow enough to stand up in, you should turn the boat deliberately into the no go zone.

- Keep the boat pointing head to wind until the mainsail is lowered.

PONTOON LAUNCHING AND RECOVERY

Pontoons can make launching easier and keep your feet dry

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Pontoons are large floating platforms that tend to be found in non-tidal locations and are usually situated on lakes or reservoirs. They are used for launching and are considerably easier to sail off from than a beach. What’s more, you can usually manage to keep your feet dry.

Pontoons tend to be found on inland waterways and reservoirs only

First steps

In preparation for launching, rig the mainsail, but do not hoist it, and hoist and furl the jib. In a Laser, rig the mast but do not connect the clew so as to allow the sail to flap in the wind.

Pontoons float on the water and allow you direct easy access to the boat

Pontoons enable you to keep your feet dry during launching

Check for any obstructions on the slipway and look out for any slip or trip hazards that could arise during launch.

Check for slip hazards before launching

Ensure the bow of the boat is secured to the trolley with a painter.

If you have a lifting rudder, put it in place with the blade raised and make sure the safety clip is fitted. This prevents the rudder from falling off in the event of capsizing.

Tie the boat to the trolley using the painter

Fit the rudder

Ensure safety clip is fitted

Next, position your trolley near the top of the gangway to the water. Check all the drainage bungs are in place on the back of the boat.

Boat preparing to launch and use a pontoon

Establish the leeward side

The side of the pontoon that you must use is the leeward side. This is the side opposite to where the wind is blowing from. Use flags or other wind indicators to help you spot this. There could also be other boats already on the pontoon.

Only use the leeward side of the pontoon

When secured to the leeward side, the boat will lie in the same direction as the wind and be held firmly in the middle of the no go zone. This will mean that the sails will be easy to rig as they will flap when hoisted.

When the wind is blowing parallel to the pontoon, you can position your boat on either side.

Secure the bow of the boat to the pontoon with the painter

When wind is blowing parallel to the pontoon, you can use either side

Boats tied on either side of the pontoon

TOP TIP

Do not try to use the windward side of the pontoon because the wind will force the boat against the pontoon during the rigging of the sails. This can cause damage to the boat or cause you injury by trapping your fingers and hands between the boat and the pontoon.

Never use the windward side of the pontoon

Do not secure the boat to the windward side of the pontoon as the location to hoist the sails. This makes rigging difficult and may cause damage or injury

Here wind is blowing away from the camera so the boats are using the end and far side of the pontoon

Launching

Lower your boat down the slipway into the water, being careful not to slip. If the boat is heavy, ask for assistance.

1 Lower the boat down the slipway

When the boat and trolley are in the water the boat will float off the trolley. Untie the painter and push the boat away, making sure though that you keep hold of the painter!

Ask a friend to park the trolley in the dinghy park. Next, walk the boat to the leeward side of the pontoon.

2 Single person boats are lighter

3 Push the boat off and park the trolley

4 Parking trolley in dinghy park

5 Walk the boat to the correct position on the pontoon

Secure the boat to the pontoon with the painter using a suitable knot. This will vary depending on the actual fixing on the pontoon, but could be either a round turn and two half hitches or a figure-of-eight around the cleat (for more information on how to tie these knots see page 27).

6 When at the leeward side, tie the painter to the pontoon

Back at the boat, pull the boat towards you, being careful not to trap your fingers between the boat and the pontoon. You can then gently step aboard.

When stepping aboard, be sure to step as close to the centreline of the boat as possible

7 If wind is parallel to the pontoon, you can use either side

8 Tie a suitable knot to suit the pontoon fitting. This is a round turn and two half hitches

9 Step aboard gently

Do not tread on the side tanks of the boat as, without the centreboard down, the boat is unstable and there would be a good chance of going for an embarrassing swim before you had even left the pontoon!

10 Keep weight in centreline of boat

Push the centreboard down fully to increase stability as you move around the boat.

11 Do not step on the side of the boat

TOP TIP

When you climb on board, take the tail of the painter and secure it somewhere you can reach it. This makes it easier when you need to finally depart.

12 Insert or lower centreboard

Single person dinghy

Attach the clew of the sail to the boom and then tighten the kicking strap slightly.

1 Attach clew of sail to boom

Next, lower the rudder blade and climb back onto the pontoon to untie the painter.

2 Ensure tie down is used to keep sail in close contact with boom

3 Take all slack out of kicking strap

4 Lower rudder blade fully

5 Boat now ready to leave

Take a good look around to make sure that there are no other vessels in the immediate area. Assuming it is clear, you are ready to depart.

6 Untie painter

Still standing on the pontoon, pick up the tiller extension and push the bow of the boat clear of the no go zone whilst smartly stepping aboard, taking the painter with you.

Pull in the mainsheet to sail away and tidy up the painter so it doesn’t fall over the side.

7 Check area is clear

8 Pick up tiller extension and push bow away from pontoon

9 Once aboard, pull sail in and sail away

Two person dinghy

With the boat launched and secured to the pontoon and centreboard lowered, hoist the mainsail, making sure the mainsheet is slack.

1 Hoist mainsail

It is a good idea for the crew to help by feeding the sail into the track on the mast.

Next, lower the rudder and secure the downhaul rope to hold the blade in place.

2 Crew can help feed the luff of the sail into the mast track

TOP TIP

As the boom is pulled up, check behind to make sure that it is not caught under the tiller at the back of the boat.

3 Check the end of the boom doesn’t get caught under the tiller as you hoist the sail

4 Lower rudder blade fully and secure the downhaul

Unfurl the jib by releasing the cleat and pulling on the jib sheet.

5 Release the furling line and pull on jib sheet

Ask the crew to untie the painter and walk the boat as close as possible to the end of the pontoon to make an easy exit.

Take a good look around to check that no other boats are about to depart or arrive at the pontoon.

6 Jib fully unfurled

7 Untying the painter in preparation for leaving

8 Take a good look around to check area is clear

9 Push the boat onto a close reach point of sailing

The boat will still be in the centre of the no go zone. To sail away, ask the crew to push the bow out of the no go zone onto a close reach. He then gently steps aboard, bringing the painter with him, being careful to get his weight as close as possible to the centreline of the boat.

10 The crew gently steps aboard, keeping weight close to centreline

Pull in both sails and sail away.

11 In a single person boat the helmsman has to push the boat clear from the pontoon

12 Single person boat leaving the pontoon

13 Second boat prepares to leave the pontoon

Pontoon recovery

This process is the same for both single person and two person dinghies. You MUST approach the pontoon from the leeward side, so read your masthead burgee or look to see where other boats are tied up.

Approach pontoon from leeward side

Do not approach from the windward side as you will be unable to control your speed and you risk either damaging or capsizing your boat.

The most important thing to remember is to approach the pontoon slowly. This reduces any chance of damage if you get things wrong and just makes the whole approach easier. The best angle to approach is from the close reach point of sailing, as this will allow you to easily control your speed by releasing the sails and keeps you out of the no go zone.

DO NOT use the windward side

Using the windward side can be hazardous and you risk capsizing

Best approach angle is the close reach point of sailing

In a two person boat, either release the jib and let it flap, or furl the jib and sail in under the mainsail alone.

Two person boat can either let jib flap to control speed or furl the jib and sail in on the mainsail alone

However, if you misjudge things don’t worry; simply tack around, sail away and then come back for another go.

Back on the correct approach, when you are a couple of boat lengths away from the pontoon, release the mainsheet totally so the sail flaps and let the momentum of the boat carry it to the pontoon. The boom should be over the side of the boat away from the pontoon and you should easily be able to grab the pontoon and step ashore.

Tack around if you misjudge things

Single person boat tacking around

Crew stops the boat and climbs ashore taking the painter with them

An alternative approach is to sail in on a close reach, with the sails flapping on one tack, and then tack round and grab the pontoon on the other side of the boat. This technique will stop the boat much more quickly.

1 Approach on a close reach

TOP TIP

Before you get out of the boat, release the kicking strap. This will help prevent the boat from capsizing on the pontoon should a gust of wind suddenly appear.

2 Tack around to stop the boat

Pick up and keep hold of the painter and then step ashore, tying the painter to a suitable fixing on the pontoon.

3 Grab the pontoon

4 Take the painter with you as you step ashore

With the boat secured to the pontoon, you can then deal with the mainsail. In the case of a single person Laser, release the clew of the sail from the boom and let the sail flap.

1 Release the clew from the outhaul

Or, if your boat has a halyard, lower the sail.

Disconnect the halyard from the head of the sail and secure this to the wire shroud. Then roll up the mainsail from the head and place it in the bottom of the boat. This process helps prevent the sail from accidentally blowing over the side of the boat as you manoeuvre it ashore.

2 Lower the mainsail if you have a halyard

3 Secure halyard to the shroud

4 Roll up mainsail from the head and store in the bottom of the boat

Raise the centreboard, but be careful moving about once the centreboard is raised, as the boat will be less stable.

5 Raise the centreboard

Lift the rudder blade and lock it to prevent it from dropping back down.

Pull the boat closer to the pontoon and step ashore but, as with launching, do not step on the side tanks as you do so.

Manoeuvre the boat close to the slipway.

6 Raise the rudder blade fully

7 Step carefully around the boat

8 Two person boat – ready to step ashore

9 Manoeuvre the boat back to the slipway

Once the boat is safely back on the trolley, make sure you tie the painter firmly to the trolley. This will prevent the boat slipping off as you drag it clear of the water.

10 Float boat onto trolley

Also, watch your step here as the slipway can get very slippery.

11 Secure the bow with the painter to stop the boat slipping off

12 Lift the boat clear of the water

Common mistakes

Launching

- Trying to launch from the wrong side of the pontoon.

- Tying an unsuitable knot to secure the boat to the pontoon.

- Not stepping into the boat on the centreline.

Recovery

- Approaching the pontoon on the wrong side.

- Approaching the pontoon too fast on the wrong point of sailing.

- Treading on the side tanks to step ashore.

- Tying an unsuitable knot to secure the boat to the pontoon.

Key learning points

Launching

- Understand where the wind is blowing from and how that affects where you need to position your boat on the pontoon.

- Only use the downwind or leeward side of the pontoon.

- Never use the windward side of the pontoon.

- Look out for slip or trip hazards on the slipway prior to launching.

- Secure the boat to the pontoon itself with a suitable knot.

- When stepping into the boat, make sure you are as close as you can be to the centreline.

- When manoeuvring your boat, be careful not to trap your fingers between the side of the boat and the pontoon.

- Sail away from the pontoon on a close reach point of sailing.

Recovery

- Approach the pontoon from a leeward side on a close reach or close-hauled point of sailing.

- Never approach on the windward side on a downwind point of sailing.

- Control your approach speed by making the sails flap.

- Go round again if you are not correctly positioned or going too fast.

- Secure the boat to the pontoon with a suitable non-slip knot.

Use a painter fixed to the bow of the boat to help manoeuvre the boat to the right position on the pontoon

YOUR FIRST SAIL (basic controls)

Keep things simple for your first sail, learning how to start and stop is your first objective afloat

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

In this chapter you will learn the fundamentals of how a boat works and prepare for your first sail. For your first sail, your objective is to try to understand where the wind is blowing from, get a feel for how the boat starts and stops by adjusting the sails, learn how to steer the boat using the rudder and how to turn around.

There is a zone of about 45 degrees either side of where the wind blows from in which you cannot sail. This is called the no go zone

Sailing boats are driven by the wind, and understanding where the wind is blowing from is integral to everything that happens on board. You must develop a good awareness of wind direction at all times to allow you to position the sails correctly.

For more information on this read the points of sailing and key factors chapters on pages 95 and 105.

In this zone the sails simply flap

What roles do people have aboard?

Whether sailing a single person or a two person boat, the person steering is called the helmsman and he also controls the mainsheet. In the case of a two person boat, the second person is called the crew and he controls the jib sheets.

The helmsman steers the boat with the crew working the jib

All control ropes that pull the sails in and out are called the sheets. The mainsheet controls the mainsail and the jib sheets control the jib.

The boat is steered by the rudder blade, the movement of which is controlled by an arm attached to the rudder called the tiller. This in turn is fitted with a tiller extension, which you should hold to steer the boat at all times to ensure you are sitting in the best position. If you hold the tiller itself, you will be sitting too far back and this will upset the waterline of the boat, making it harder to steer.

Do not sit too far back

Helmsman should adopt the dagger grip

Sitting well forward with the tiller extension across and in front of your body, you will gain good control and a feel for steering. Your other hand is free to hold the rope that pulls the mainsail in. This position is called the dagger grip

Use the tiller extension to sit forwards

As the helmsman, you must hold the mainsheet at all times and be prepared to release this when a brisk gust of wind hits the boat, which will try to knock you over.

This allows you to easily control the mainsheet

Dagger grip allows easy control of the tiller

For your first sail pick a day with gentle winds

Understanding how to adjust the sails

To help you understand how the wind powers the boat you should think of your sail as an engine and the mainsheet as your accelerator and brake combined. Pulling in on the mainsheet will pull in the sail, which makes it fill with wind. This in turn generates drive to push the boat through the water. Letting the mainsheet go makes the sail flap, which reduces power and subsequently slows you down.

Position the boat on a beam reach with the sails flapping

In your first few sailing sessions you should limit your sailing to fair weather days where the wind is blowing less than 16mph or a force 3 on the Beaufort scale – see page 36. Do not be tempted to sail in strong winds until you have mastered the basics in lighter conditions.

Gently pull the mainsheet to make the boat move forwards

To understand how the wind interacts with the boat, it is best to start from the beam reach point of sailing. A beam reach is where the wind blows at right angles to the direction the boat is pointing. This is the easiest point of sailing to understand as the boat is well clear of the no go zone. Refer to the points of sailing chapter on page 95 for more information on this.

Starting with the control sheets loose and the sails flapping, make sure the tiller is central. Next gently pull the control sheets until the sails don’t flap any more.

To stop, release the mainsheet so the sail flaps

You will notice that the boat will immediately drive forwards. When you pull a sail in from a slack position, the last bit to fill with wind is the front part of the sail. So this is the area to look at to make sure that it doesn’t flap.

Rudder assembly is the steering mechanism for the boat and is controlled by the helmsman

Sailing dinghies don’t have brakes, so to slow down you must release the power in the sails by letting out the control sheets until the sails flap.

You should practise releasing and tightening the sails to get a feel for how the boat accelerates and slows down.

Look for the point where the sail starts to flap

Pull in mainsheet to stop the sail flapping

Continue pulling until the sail doesn’t flap

Slow down by easing the mainsheet

Steering the boat

To steer the boat, gently push and pull the tiller extension in small amounts and always return the tiller to the central position to keep yourself sailing in a straight line. Remember that the boat will turn with even the smallest amount of movement on the rudder.

Taking a fixed landmark reduces the chance of becoming disorientated

Pushing the tiller towards the boom will turn the nose or bow of the boat towards the direction of the wind – this is called luffing up. Pulling the tiller away from the boom will make the bow of the boat turn away from the wind – this is called bearing away.

Keep referring to landmark to stay on course

When sailing, it is a good idea to take note of fixed landmarks. This will give you a target to steer towards and help prevent you from becoming disorientated as you move about in the boat and the boat turns around.

Keep the tiller straight to maintain going in a straight line

Turning around

For your first sail, when you need to turn around you should use the tacking manoeuvre. For a detailed explanation of this read the tacking chapter on page 183 But to start with, the basic steps of tacking are to first take a good look around to check the turning area is clear. If so, inform the crew that you intend to start the manoeuvre, if sailing a two person boat, then PUSH the tiller towards the boom and release the mainsheet. The boat will immediately turn.

1 To turn around, gently push tiller towards boom

Duck under the boom and move onto the new side of the boat. If in a two person boat, get the crew to release the jib sheet and pull the jib across.

2 The boat will immediately turn. Prepare to duck

Continue turning until the boat has gone round through 180 degrees and you are facing the direction from which you have just sailed.

3 Duck as boom moves across

4 Continue turning until you point back from where you have just come from

Then straighten the tiller and swap your hands over. For more information on how to do this see the tacking chapter on page 183. Adjust the sail control sheets to find the point where the sails don’t flap.

5 Straighten tiller

How to stop and take a rest

If you want to stop and have a rest for a while in a two person boat, adopt the hove to position. In a single person dinghy this is called lying to. Bring the boat onto a close reach point of sailing and release the mainsheet so it flaps. Free off the kicking strap so it is slack and part raise the centreboard. Maintain this heading, keeping the boom out to the side.

6 Swap hands and sail away

In a two person boat, again position the boat on the close reach point of sailing. Ask the crew to pull the jib across onto the wrong (ie, windward) side of the boat and release the mainsail so it flaps. Free off the kicking strap and half raise the centreboard. Push the tiller towards the boom, and the boat will almost stop.

Single person boat lying-to

Two person boat hove-to

To get going again in a single person boat, simply pull in the mainsail and tighten the kicking strap slightly. On a two person boat, release the jib and pull it across to the leeward side of the boat. Pull in the mainsheet and kicking strap and straighten the tiller to sail away.

Push tiller towards boom

Stuck in irons

Whilst tacking across the wind, you may straighten the rudder too soon. If you do, you will be stuck in the no go zone with the bow of the boat pointing head to wind. This is called being stuck in irons and you will be unable to sail.

Boat is in middle of no go zone and stuck in irons

If this happens don’t worry. You need to force the bow of the boat to one side of the no go zone or the other.

To achieve this, push the mainsail out by hand as far as you can with the boom. At the same time push the tiller towards the boom. This will force the wind to hit the back of the sail, which will introduce drive and start to push you backwards, turning the boat clear of the no go zone.

Once the boat has turned well clear of the no go zone, you can then release the boom, quickly straighten the tiller and pull in the mainsheet to sail away.

1 Push boom and tiller out on same side

In short, it’s a push on the boom and a push on the tiller, followed by a pull on the mainsheet and a pull on the tiller.

2 Boat will turn

3 Push the boom and tiller out on the same side of the boat to force boat backwards

4 As the boat moves backwards and turns, continue to push out both the boom and tiller

5 When the boat has turned 90 degrees, let go of the boom and pull on the mainsheet. Pull the tiller back to centre

In a two person dinghy things are a little easier. If you get stuck in the no go zone, simply ask the crew to hold the clew of the jib as far out to one side as he can.

1 Two person boat stuck in irons

The leverage of the wind on the back side of the jib will force the boat out of the no go zone, at which point let the jib go, pull it back across and then sail away.

2 Crew pulls jib to one side

Windier weather

If you sail in windier conditions, the procedures are the same but they happen much faster. You will notice that the boat will turn more quickly, the sails will flap more loudly and the boom will travel across the boat faster. You should consider reefing the mainsail on windy days – this reduces the amount of sail area and takes some of the power away. Read the reefing chapter on page 83 to see how to reef the sails.

3 The boat will turn

4 After the boat turns 90 degrees, release jib and pull across

Common mistakes

- Not understanding where the wind is blowing from, so not setting the sails correctly for the point of sailing you are on. See the points of sailing chapter on page 95 for more information.

- Getting stuck in irons due to straightening the tiller before you have passed across the no go zone.

- Not keeping a good lookout can put you in a hazardous area with lots of boats or other water users.

Key learning points

- First time out, avoid winds greater than about 15 miles per hour so that you can practise manoeuvring at manageable speeds.

- Pulling in the mainsheet so that the mainsail fills with wind will drive your boat forward.

- Releasing the mainsheet so that the mainsail flaps in the wind will lose drive and slow you down.

- In your early days of sailing, the easiest condition to practise in is when the wind is blowing across the boat at 90 degrees. This is called a beam reach.

- The safest way to turn your boat around is to tack, which is when the bow or nose of the boat goes through the eye of the wind and out onto the other side.

- It’s likely that you will become disorientated as you tack back and forth, so before you turn identify a landmark to aim at which will become a reference point for you.

- If you get stuck in the no go zone, push the boom away from you and push the tiller towards the boom. When the mainsail then fills with wind, pull the tiller towards you again, pull the sail in and sail away.

HOW TO TACK

Tacking is the manoeuvre that allows you to turn the boat around by turning across the wind and on to the other side

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Tacking: an introduction

In this chapter you will learn how to tack a dinghy.

Tacking is the manoeuvre that allows you to turn the boat around by turning the bow of the boat through the wind.

You can start to tack from any point of sailing and turn to any point of sailing on the opposite tack.

Tacking takes the boat from one side of the no go zone to the other

This chapter will focus on starting from the close-hauled point of sailing on one side, turning the boat through the no go zone and then on to the close-hauled point of sailing on the other tack. (Refer to the points of sailing chapter on page 95 for more information on this).

Start the manoeuvre from the close-hauled point of sailing

As previously mentioned in the book, the wind has a zone of about 45 degrees either side of where it’s blowing from in which you can’t sail. This is called the no go zone and here the sails won’t work.

During the tack the bow of the boat turns across the wind

When tacking, the boat will turn from one side of the no go zone to the other and the sails will flap. This reduces drive and slows the boat down. When turning, it is best to master tacking before attempting the alternative, faster manoeuvre called gybing, which is the subject of another chapter on page 213.

The tack is completed once the opposite close-hauled point of sailing is reached

The basic principles for tacking are the same for the helmsman, whether sailing a single person or two person dinghy.

By combining a series of tacks together with maintaining the close-hauled point of sailing, it is possible to sail your boat towards the direction the wind is blowing from, and this is called beating.

Single person boat sailing close-hauled (Starboard tack)

Two person boat sailing close-hauled (Port tack)

A series of tacks, together with maintaining a close-hauled point of sailing, is called beating

SAFETY POINT

You should only tack if your sailing area is clear from other vessels or obstructions. To do this, you should take a good look around, over both shoulders and behind you, to check that the area is clear. If not, you should wait until it is clear or slow down to let the other vessel pass.

Establish a close-hauled point of sailing

Firstly, establish yourself on the close-hauled point of sailing. To do this, pull in the sails hard so the boom ends up over the leeward corner of the boat. Hold the tip of the tiller extension across and in front of your body, with your thumb pointing towards the end of the tiller extension, and hold the mainsheet in the other hand. This is called the dagger grip and it allows you to easily steer the boat with one hand and be ready to adjust or release the mainsheet with the other if a gust of wind hits you and the boat heels over.

The close-hauled point of sailing is on the edge of the no go zone

Push the centreboard fully down and, in the case of a two person dinghy, ask the crew to pull the jib in hard.

Next, gently push the tiller towards the boom. This will turn the boat towards the wind, which is called ‘luffing up’. Continue to turn gently until you see the front edge of the sail start to ‘back’ – this is where the sail starts to fill with wind from the other side.

On a two person boat look at the front edge of the jib to find the edge of the no go zone

When this point is reached, gently pull the tiller away from the boom until the sail snaps into an even shape and then straighten the tiller. This is called ‘bearing away’.

On a single person dinghy look at the front edge of the mainsail.

The jib ‘pops’ into shape

As you get more proficient you should be able to adjust the steering of the boat by very small amounts, paying attention to the telltales, which will react before the sail will ‘back’.

On a single person dinghy look at the front edge of the sail to find the edge of the no go zone

You are now on the close-hauled point of sailing and on the edge of the no go zone.

To maintain the close-hauled point of sailing, continually repeat the action of gently luffing up and bearing away by pushing and pulling the tiller towards and away from the boom in very small amounts whilst looking for the point where the sail starts to back.

Helmsman holds tiller extension in dagger grip and mainsheet in the front hand

Tiller extension is in the back hand. Keep tiller movements small

TOP TIP

Apply small, gentle tiller movements. Pushing the tiller too fast and hard here will put you in the middle of the no go zone where you will either stop or tack accidentally.

During the tack the boat will turn through 90 degrees. Identify a new target destination before you start

Tacking a single person dinghy

Let’s look first at how to tack a single person dinghy.

Establish the boat on the close-hauled point of sailing and check the area is clear of hazards.

1 Close-hauled sailing – the boom is over the corner of the boat and the centreboard is fully down

It is important to check over both shoulders and look under the boom to see if there are any immediate hazards. Sailing in a single person dinghy calls for extra vigilance as there is no crew to assist you. Do not tack if by doing so you will be turning directly into the path of an oncoming boat. It is best to wait until they have passed before tacking. An exception to this would be when two boats are directly converging. See the rules of the road chapter (page 51) for more information on this.

2 Take a good look around

Next, prepare to step across the boat by leading with your back foot. This will ensure that you face forward during the manoeuvre.

After this, release about one metre of mainsheet to slow the boat down, making it easier to get under the boom, and gently push the tiller towards the boom.

3 Release one metre of mainsheet

As soon as the tiller is pushed, the boat will immediately start to turn into the no go zone and the sails will begin to flap.

As the boom moves across the boat, duck under the boom and step across the boat. Keep your head down here to avoid being hit by the boom.

4 Eased mainsheet makes it easier to get under the boom

5 Push tiller extension towards the boom gently, holding the tip

6 The boat turns – duck under the boom as it moves across

TOP TIP

Hold the tiller extension as close to the end as you can – this provides greater control and makes things easier later on in the tack.

Keep the tiller pushed over to allow the boat to continue to turn through the no go zone and onto the close-hauled point of sailing on the opposite tack.

7 Sit down on new side with weight well forward. Note: hands haven’t swapped yet

Don’t worry if the sails flap noisily during the turn – this is normal.

When the boom has flipped across and moved over to the opposite side of the boat, sit down on the new windward side (ie, the side closest to the wind) as far forward as you can.

Next, locate the new landmark or target you selected before the turn and ensure you end up pointing towards this mark.

8 Prepare to swap hands

Straighten the tiller, still holding the extension behind your back. This will feel a little odd to start with but it is possible to steer the boat like this for some distance. Changing hands is easier if you are seated and there is less chance of dropping the tiller, which will make the boat turn out of control.

TOP TIP

Look to find the landmark you picked before the turn as this will help you to judge if you have turned the correct amount.

Swap hands

Next, you should swap hands by taking the hand holding the mainsheet to the tiller extension behind your back. To make things easier, ensure your new hand has the thumb pointing towards the end of the tiller extension. This avoids an awkward twist of the wrist in the next step.

Then let go of the tiller extension with the original hand and rotate the extension under your arm – you may need to lean forward slightly here.

Finally, position the tiller extension back in front of your body and grab the mainsheet with your front hand, resuming the dagger grip.

Pull in the mainsheet once more and probe the tiller to find the close-hauled point of sailing on the edge of the no go zone.

9 Take old mainsheet hand back to tiller extension. Point thumbs on both hands together

10 Release original hand, lean forward and roll tiller extension under your arm

11 Resume dagger grip, pull in mainsheet and establish close-hauled point of sailing

Tacking a two person dinghy

Let’s now look at how to tack a two person dinghy. As mentioned, there are many similarities for the helmsman between tacking a two person or a single person dinghy, but the second person complicates things slightly.

1 Both helm and crew check turning area is clear

Sailing a two person dinghy requires teamwork and good communication as it relies on both helm and crew working together. The helmsman must not tack if the crew is not ready.

The helmsman establishes the boat on the close-hauled point of sailing and checks the immediate areas for hazards or other vessels. He only proceeds if it is clear.

2 Helmsman shouts ready about whilst crew prepares to release the jib sheet

The first step for the helmsman is to shout ‘ready about’. This is the command to inform the crew that the manoeuvre is imminent.

The crew should then also check for hazards or other vessels and, if it is clear, release the jib sheet from any jam cleat, keeping hold of the jib sheet and replying ‘all clear’. The helmsman must hear this response before proceeding.

The helmsman prepares to step across the boat leading with his back foot. This ensures that he faces forward during the manoeuvre.

3 Helmsman shouts lee oh, releases about one metre of mainsheet, and crew frees jib sheet

To make the tack simpler, the helmsman releases about one metre of mainsheet. This slows the boat down and makes it easier to get under the boom.

4 Helmsman gently pushes tiller extension towards the boom. The boat turns immediately

Next the helmsman shouts ‘lee oh’. This is the command to tell the crew that the tack is about to start.

At the same time he gently pushes the tiller towards the boom and both people prepare to duck. The boat will immediately start to turn and enter the no go zone. The boom will begin to swing towards the centre of the boat and the sails will flap.

The crew should release the jib sheet to let the jib flap.

As the boom reaches the centreline of the boat, both helm and crew duck under the boom and step across the boat. They keep their heads down here to avoid being hit by the travelling boom.

5 Helm and crew duck well under moving boom whilst sail flaps

6 Helm and crew sit on new side; crew pulls jib sheet tight

TOP TIP

Try to hold your arms wide apart as you step across. This will help keep the mainsheet well clear and free from tangling with the tiller arm.

Once the boom has moved over to the new leeward side of the boat (ie, side furthest from the wind), both helm and crew should sit down on the opposite side as far forward as they can, with the tiller extension still behind the helmsman’s back. The helm continues to turn the boat until he has located the new landmark or target selected before the tack. He then straightens the tiller.

The crew, meanwhile, pulls the jib in hard and secures the jib sheet in the appropriate jam cleat if the boat has one.

7 Helmsman swaps hands. Takes old mainsheet hand to the tiller extension. Both thumbs should point together

8 Releases tiller extension from old hand, leans forward and rolls tiller extension under his arm

9 Resumes dagger grip once more and pulls in mainsheet

Swap hands

Next, the helmsman should swap hands.

Once the helmsman has swapped his hands over, both sails are pulled in tight again and the helmsman probes the tiller to find the close-hauled point of sailing once more, ie, the point where the sail is not flapping.

Bird’s eye view

1 The helmsman establishes the close-hauled point of sailing. He then checks if area is clear, spots new landmark and shouts ‘ready about’.

2 Crew replies ‘all clear’, helm shouts ‘lee oh’ then releases about one metre of mainsheet and pushes tiller extension towards boom; crew releases jib.

3 Helm and crew duck under the boom and move across the boat.

4 Both sit well forward on new side. Helm straightens tiller and swaps hands; crew pulls in jib.

5 Helm locates new landmark, resumes dagger grip, pulls in mainsheet and establishes close-hauled point of sailing.

1 Boat sailing close-hauled. Check area is clear

2 Push tiller towards boom

3 Duck under the boom

4 Move across as boom swings over

5 Sit on new side

Common mistakes

- Not starting the manoeuvre from the close-hauled point of sailing. If you are not close-hauled, you will not make any headway towards the wind – you will simply go backwards and forwards along the same line. So ensure that you are sailing close-hauled.

- Pushing the tiller across too hard during the tack. There is a risk you will turn the boat too quickly and you may not be able to get across the boat in time before you capsize.

- Failure to straighten the rudder after the manoeuvre will allow the boat to continue to turn and you could well end up doing a complete 360-degree turn.

- Forgetting to duck under the boom. You may consider wearing a hard hat similar to a canoeist helmet. This is particularly advisable for children.

- Straightening the rudder too soon when you are still in the no go zone. This will stop the boat wth no drive in the sail and you will find yourself completely stuck in irons – see the chapter on your first sail, page 169.

Key learning points

- Tacking is the manoeuvre that allows you to turn the boat around from any point of sailing by turning the bow of the boat through the eye of the wind.

- The wind has a zone of about 45 degrees either side of where it’s blowing from in which you can’t sail. This is called the no go zone and a boat turns through this zone when tacking.

- The boat slows significantly during the turn when tacking, so it is best to learn this manoeuvre before attempting the faster way of turning called the gybe (see page 213).

- A series of tacks combined with the close- hauled point of sailing is called beating and allows you to sail towards the wind.

- When sailing towards the wind you should be on a close-hauled point of sailing, with the sails pulled in hard and not flapping.

- Ensure you use small tiller movements when steering rather than large ones.

- Identify a new landmark or target point before you start your tack to stop you getting disorientated.

- Check the area is free from obstructions and only tack if it is clear.

- Good communications between helm and crew are vital.

- Effective grip and hand-swapping techniques with the tiller and control sheets are among the key factors to successful tacking.

- Release about one metre of mainsheet before you tack to slow the boat down and make it easier to get under the boom.

- Lead with your back foot to ensure that you face forward throughout the manoeuvre.

When performing a tack ensure you keep well clear of other vessels during the manoeuvre

Practise your skills ashore with a land drill

Next steps

Practise tacking slowly to start with. Speed comes later. Bad habits will be formed which will be hard to break unless you do things slowly to begin with.

You can even practise on dry land first. Place some old tyres under the back of the boat – there’s no need to hoist the sails – tie the boom up using the halyard fixed to the outhaul at the end of the boom. Climb into the boat and ask a friend to mimic the wind by pushing the boom across the boat.

First time out on the water, avoid winds greater than about 12 miles an hour so that you can carry out the manoeuvre at a manageable speed.

Practise sailing as close to the no go zone as you can, until the front edge of the headsail doesn’t flap, and then start tacking.

Keep tacking from one side of the no go zone to the other until you feel comfortable with all the steps.

CAPSIZE AND RECOVERY

A capsize can occur on any point of sailing, usually when too much wind hits the boat

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Introduction

Capsizing is a normal part of everyday sailing. Even very experienced sailors capsize, and the most common cause is when the wind simply overpowers you and knocks you over. There is nothing to worry about when it happens and the boat won’t sink. Dinghies tend to have plenty of buoyancy built into the design, which prevents them from sinking, even if one of the buoyancy tanks becomes holed and knocks the boat over.

Two person boat about to capsize

In time, the number of capsizes you have will reduce, but a practised capsize drill will allow you to recover the boat easily.

Two person boats require teamwork to pull the boat back up

With any capsize, the trick is to keep calm and apply a gentle, sustained pressure to the boat when you are trying to right it. If you panic and over exert yourself, you could injure yourself as well as tire yourself out quickly.

A common concern when starting out is what happens if you get caught under the sail in the water.

Everyone capsizes

SAFETY POINT

Even in mid summer the water will be cold. If it is windy, it is a good idea to wear a wetsuit as this will help to keep you warm should you end up in the water. In winter months a drysuit is better still as this will keep you completely dry (see page 42).

If this happens do not panic; your buoyancy aid will provide enough leverage for you to push the sail up. This will introduce a pocket of air under the sail so you can breathe and then simply swim free.

Another concern is what happens if you get caught under the upturned hull should it invert. Boats turn from a capsized to an inverted position slowly, so there should be ample time to swim clear if you feel this is happening. However, if you do get caught under the boat, there should be a pocket of air. Simply take a big breath and swim out from under the upturned hull.

To prevent the boat from inverting should a capsize occur, you may prefer to fit a masthead flotation bag to the top of the mainsail, which adds buoyancy to the masthead. See page 73 for how to rig this.

Single person boats are lighter to pull back up

Wetsuits are good if it is windy, even in mid summer

If caught under the sail, push up and swim free

Masthead flotation bags prevent the boat from inverting in the event of a capsize

Single person capsize

Single person dinghies are lighter than two person dinghies and, as such, are generally easier to pull back upright from a capsize.

When you end up in the water, make sure you are not tangled in any ropes and try to loosen the mainsheet totally.

1 Keep in contact with the boat at all times

It is important to keep in direct contact with the boat by either holding onto the hull or picking up the mainsheet.

Swim to the stern of the boat, taking the end of the mainsheet with you. This will stop you becoming separated from the boat and will also prevent you from becoming trapped under the hull should it invert. Check the rudder hasn’t fallen off. If it has, refit it.

Before you go afloat always check the rudder has a retraining pin or clip to stop it slipping off when the boat capsizes.

2 Swim to stern of boat, taking mainsheet with you

If the boat has inverted, swim to the windward side and climb onto the upturned gunwale of the boat, using the centreboard for support. If it is pointing bow to wind then either side will do.

Next, ensure that the centreboard is fully extended to provide greater leverage.

Holding the centreboard, lean back whilst applying steady pressure on it. A gentle, steady force is the key here so there is no need to over exert yourself.

3 Check rudder is still in place

Gradually the boat will adopt the flat capsize position, ie, when it is lying on its side, flat on the water.

When in this position, apply all your weight to the upper surface of the centreboard and push down.

4 Climb onto upturned lip (gunwale) of boat

This will force the sail to pop out of the water. A sharp pump on the centreboard may be necessary to break the surface tension caused by the sail sticking to the water. Once the sail has become clear of the water, the boat will right itself quickly.

5 Fully extend centreboard to provide greater leverage

6 Lean back and apply consistent weight to centreboard

7 When the flat capsize position is reached, apply weight to top of centreboard

8 Keep pushing as the boat comes up

You should now be in the water next to the boat. Let the boom settle and prepare to climb back on board.

Do not climb in under the boom as this increases the chance of pulling the boat back over again.

Swim to the windward side so that the boom is lying away from you.

9 Keep hold of the hull when the boat is upright

10 Do not climb in under the boom

11 Swim to windward side

12 Pull on the toe straps for more leverage

13 Climb aboard

You can grab hold of the toe straps to help pull yourself back into the boat.

When aboard, check that all the control lines are not tangled, open any drainage points, grab the tiller extension and pull the sail in to sail away.

14 Tidy up loose ropes and sail away

Dry capsize

As you get more proficient and experienced, it is possible to right the boat without actually getting wet. This is called a dry capsize and here’s how you do it. As the boat flips over, if you are quick you can end up sitting on the uppermost side of the boat. You can then swiftly step over the boat and stand on the centreboard.

Using your weight, lean on the centreboard to pull the boat back upright. As the boat rights itself, step back over the side into the cockpit, keeping yourself dry. As before, you can then sort out all the ropes, making sure nothing is tangled, open any drainage points and start sailing again.

If you are quick, you can step over onto the centreboard

Simply apply all your weight to the centreboard

Two person capsize

Two person boats tend to be larger than one person boats and, as such, are slightly harder to pull back upright.

Good communication is vital during the procedure as the two people will eventually end up on opposite sides of the boat and out of sight of each other. Knowing what the other is doing is important to avoid confusion or being unprepared.

1 Helmsman and crew are in the water. Check you are free from all loose ropes

The method we will illustrate is called the scoop method, where one person pulls the boat up whilst the other person is scooped back aboard.

When the boat capsizes, both helm and crew end up in the water. The first step is to check that they are both okay and not caught up in any loose ropes.

2 Check rudder is still in place

Next, they check that the centreboard is extended fully as this will be needed later.

They need to decide who is going to take the lead role and swim around to the centreboard. This should be the heavier person. In our example this is the helmsman, who swims to the stern of the boat, taking the mainsheet with him. When at the stern, he double checks that the rudder hasn’t fallen off. Meanwhile, the crew stays where he is but must be prepared to swim free should he feel the boat begin to invert.

3 Keep hold of mainsheet

The helmsman then swims to the centreboard, still holding on to the mainsheet.

At the same time, on the other side of the boat, the crew is positioning himself in the water. He should grab hold of something secure in the cockpit, which will allow him to be scooped aboard. It is important that he doesn’t apply too much pressure and fight against the efforts of the helmsman, who is working on the opposite side to right the boat.

4 Crew ensures mainsheet is fully slack

The crew should try to free the mainsheet fully as this will stop the sail from powering up as soon as the boat is upright again.

The helmsman then pushes down on the centreboard, applying a constant pressure.

However, he may need to give the centreboard a sharp pump with his body weight to break the surface tension caused by the sail sticking to the water. The boat will then right itself quickly.

5 Crew floats in water but holds onto the boat

6 Apply a spurt of pressure to upper surface of centreboard

7 Resistance from water on the surface of the sail may make the sail hard to pull up

With the boat now upright, the crew is able to help the helmsman climb aboard. In our illustrations this is over the stern of the boat as the transom is low. If you choose this option, be prepared to move quickly because your weight will act as a sea anchor and make the boat turn away from the wind, increasing the chance of yet another capsize. Do not climb in under the boom as the extra weight will pull the boat back over.

Once aboard, the helmsman and crew sort out all the ropes, making sure nothing is tangled, and open any drainage points before sailing off again.

8 The helm applies steady gentle pressure to the centreboard

9 As the boat comes up the crew is scooped aboard

10 Crew in scooped position

11 The crew helps helmsman aboard

Dealing with an inversion

An inverted capsize is when the boat turns 180 degrees and ends up fully upside down, with the mast in the water and the centreboard pointing upwards.

This is a common occurrence as, due to the built-in buoyancy design of most dinghies, when the boat capsizes the hull can be lifted high in the water with the mast pointing downwards. Gravity then simply pulls the boat to the inverted position

1 Boats often invert

When this happens do not worry. A bit more effort is required, but done correctly should not be too much of a strain. Both helm and crew swim to the windward side of the boat, climb out of the water and stand on the upturned gunwale, grabbing hold of the centreboard. They need to be careful with the trailing edge of the centreboard as this is thin and delicate, and can be very easily damaged.

2 Helmsman and crew both lean back

The helm and crew just lean back, pulling in the same direction. There’s no need to apply too much force here as a gentle and sustained pressure will suffice and is the key to an effective capsize procedure.

3 Apply consistent pressure to force the boat to move

Slowly the boat will adopt the flat capsize position, whereby it is lying on its side.

The lighter person should then swim back around the rear of the boat and end up on the cockpit side, taking care to stay in direct contact with the boat. Both helm and crew then follow the process described above.

4 Keep pushing on centreboard until the boat is flat

Righting lines

Some boats are fitted with righting lines. These are lines connected to the hull on both sides. They serve no useful purpose during general sailing, but in the event of a capsize can make things easier. It is purely down to personal choice as to whether you fit these lines or not. By using them, you may be able to apply more turning pressure to the upturned or capsized hull.

5 Lighter person swims to cockpit side and prepares to be scooped aboard

Capsize practice

A well practised capsize drill is an important skill to master and is preferable to leaving it until you have to, which is likely to be on a windy day when things happen beyond your control. Practise in light winds so you know what to do when the need arises.

Push on the boom to force capsize

First choose a safe area that is deep enough to take the mast should you fully invert. To force the boat to capsize, lean on the boom and push this towards the water. If sailing a two person boat, both of you should do this as the imbalance of weight will knock the boat over. When in the water, go through the routine already described above.

Keep pushing until the boat falls over

Key learning points

- Dinghies do not sink when they capsize.

- Everyone capsizes, even the most experienced sailors, so don’t be worried or embarrassed.

- Swim to the stern and make sure the rudder is in place.

- Ensure the centreboard is pushed fully down.

- Hold the mainsheet to keep in direct contact with the boat at all times, preventing you from being separated.

- Remember to apply consistent, gentle pressure to the centreboard or righting lines to pull the boat back up.

- Release the mainsheet fully so when the boat comes upright the sail will automatically flap.

- When the boat is flat on its side it may be necessary to give the centreboard a sharp pump to break the surface tension caused by the sail sticking to the water.

- In a two person boat, the lighter person should position themselves by the cockpit in preparation to be scooped up, but he should be careful not to apply any force that will counterbalance the helmsman who is trying to right the boat from the centreboard.

- Once the lighter person has been scooped up, he should help the other person to get back on board.

- Communication throughout the procedure of righting a boat is essential to ensure it is smooth and safe.

- A good capsize drill is an important part of sailing. Being completely familiar with what you need to do allows you to be more confident with your general sailing.

HOW TO GYBE

Gybing is the manoeuvre that allows the boat to turn across the wind when sailing downwind. Often the subject of an unwelcome capsize

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

Gybing: an introduction

In this chapter you will learn the steps of how to gybe your dinghy. Gybing is the manoeuvre that allows you to change direction by turning the stern of the boat through the wind when you are on a reaching or running point of sailing (see the points of sailing chapter on page 95).

Gybing is the manoeuvre to turn the boat with the wind behind you, so the stern of the boat turns through the wind

Unlike the tacking manoeuvre where the bow of the boat turns through the wind, causing the sails to flap and the boat to lose power and speed, during the gybe the bow of the boat is pointing away from the wind so the rig is under power at all times.

That said, gybing is nothing to fear and is easy to master. Good balance technique is a key factor.

1 Start on a training run

The boom will travel a long distance under load and this can be fast. Gybing is often the cause of an unwelcome capsize.

2 Turn onto a dead run

3 The boom gets behind the sail and flicks it across

4 The boom settles on new side

5 Once completed, you can adjust your course

The direction of travel is ahead and under the boom

Check the area under the boom is clear

SAFETY POINT

You must not gybe if your sailing area is not clear from other vessels or obstructions.

Take a good look around, paying particular attention under the boom and in front of the boat as this is the direction of travel during the manoeuvre.

Also check behind your back for approaching vessels. If there is any doubt, you should wait until the area is clear before attempting to turn.

Be careful of the moving boom, which can flick across the boat very fast. Make sure you duck well clear of it.

Be aware that on a windy day the gybe will happen very fast and the helm and crew must be prepared to move their weight extremely quickly to the new side of the boat to avoid an unwelcome capsize

Always check the area is clear before starting

Establish a training run

Establish a training run

The basic steps taken by the helmsman are the same, whether sailing a single person or two person boat. In the two person boat the crew adds an extra element of communication.

You can gybe from any downwind point of sailing to any other downwind point of sailing on the opposite side, but it is best to learn by gybing between training runs on opposite sides.

The boom swings quickly across the boat

A training run is when the boat is sailing approximately 150 degrees off the wind (for more information see the points of sailing chapter on page 95).

The boom should be well out to the side of the boat and the centreboard should be about three-quarters up.

Lift the daggerboard so it is about three-quarters raised

On a training run there is less chance of the wind accidentally flicking the boom across before you are ready to turn.

Alternative style of centreboard, which pivots round a pin, about three-quarters raised

Pick a new target destination

TOP TIP

Wind awareness

To help you identify where the wind is blowing from use a masthead burgee, which will point towards the wind. Ripples on the water are also a useful indicator and move in the same direction as the wind.

From a training run the turning angle for the completed manoeuvre will only be about 60 degrees.

The direction of travel that the boat will make during the gybe is towards the leeward bow side of the boat. This is in front and under the sail and is the area you must check to see that it is clear from any hazards before attempting to gybe.

To prevent becoming disorientated during the manoeuvre, identify a likely new transit point before you turn.

Make sure you duck well clear of the moving boom

In both single and two person boats, during the gybe the boom will flick across the boat extremely quickly from one side to the other. The whole manoeuvre can take less than a second! It is therefore vital to duck down low to avoid being hit by the boom.

You must also be prepared to move your weight extremely quickly across to the new windward side to balance the boat.

Be prepared to quickly balance the boat once the boom has moved across

The force of the boom can easily capsize the boat, particularly if the wind is strong.

To reduce the amount of travel of the boom, you should first pull in the mainsheet by a couple of metres. This will make the whole manoeuvre a little safer while you are learning.

When the weight in the mainsheet feels neutral, pull the boom across

When is the sail ready to move across?

Understanding when the boom is ready to move across is an important skill to learn for both single person and two person boats.

The point you are looking for is when the pressure in the mainsheet becomes momentarily light. This lasts for a very short period of time and indicates the moment when the wind is changing sides on the sail.

On a single person boat sharply pull the mainsheet when the weight feels light

When you feel this point, you should yank the mainsheet sharply to force the boom across. Depending on your mainsheet configuration, you either pull the mainsheet falls across or tug in the mainsheet.

In doing this, you dictate the point when the boat actually gybes and this helps you to maintain control and know when to balance the boat. If sailing a Laser, it will also help prevent the mainsheet from becoming snagged on the end of the transom.

If you do not force the boom across, then the wind will do this for you, which may catch you unprepared. The impact is such that you are likely to capsize. Also, the turning angle for the manoeuvre will increase.

Some dinghies are prone to the mainsheet snagging the transom during the gybe

Gybing a single person dinghy

Establish the training run, with centreboard about three-quarters up, and sit on the windward side of the boat, holding the tiller extension in the dagger grip.

Check under the boom that the area is clear and, if so, pull in some mainsheet.

Keeping the tiller straight, roll the tiller extension so the tip points towards the boom.

1 Start by holding the tiller extension in the dagger grip

Shift your weight closer to the centreline of the boat.

Have one final look around and gently push the tiller away from the boom and duck. The boat will turn immediately and quickly, so keep the tiller movement small.

As the boat turns, feel for the weightless point in the mainsheet and give it a tug to force the boom across.

2 Pull in some mainsheet to restrict boom movement

The boom will then flick from one side of the boat to the other.

3 Rotate tiller so tip points towards the boom

4 Tiller extension pointing towards the boom

When you feel the boom move across the boat, you must balance the boat and then immediately straighten the tiller as the boom settles on the new side.

If you do not do this, the boat will continue to turn and there is a chance you will spin round in a full circle.

Note that the tiller extension should be behind your back.

5 Push tiller away from boom

6 Push tiller away from the boom to start the turn

7 When the mainsheet feels light yank the mainsheet hard to force the boom to flick across the boat

8 Duck under moving boom

9 As boom settles, straighten tiller immediately

Swap hands

Next swap hands. Take the hand that is holding the mainsheet back to the tiller extension and grab it with your thumb pointing towards the end.

Let go with your original hand, lean forward slightly and roll the tiller extension under your arm.

Resume the dagger grip once more, grabbing the mainsheet with your front hand.

The final step is to ease the mainsheet back out a little bit to suit the training run and sail away.

10 Sit well forward and prepare to swap hands

11 Point both thumbs together

12 Lean forward and roll tiller extension under your arm

13 Resume dagger grip and continue sailing

Gybing a two person dinghy

As mentioned, there are many similarities with the actions of the helmsman, whether sailing a single person or two person dinghy. With a two person boat, good communication between helm and crew is vital, particularly as the boom can move across quickly and it is common for the crew to hit his head on the boom if he doesn’t know the gybe is happening.

1 Helmsman establishes training run

The helmsman establishes the training run with the tiller in the dagger grip and mainsheet eased so the boom is almost 90 degrees over the side of the boat. The centreboard is about three-quarters up.

2 On a training run the boat is sailing at an angle of about 150 degrees from the wind

His new sailing direction will be towards a point under the boom in front of the boat, so he needs to check this area is clear from hazards or obstructions. Bearing in mind that these are likely to be hidden by the jib, it is very important to look under this sail.

This will also help prevent the helmsman from becoming disorientated during the manoeuvre. Before turning, he should look behind his back as well, as other vessels may be approaching from that angle.

3 Helmsman checks area is clear

To alert the crew that the gybe is imminent the helmsman shouts ‘standby to gybe’.

4 Helmsman and crew check the turning area is clear from obstructions or hazards

The crew then double checks the area is clear, making sure his feet are not caught in any trailing ropes. He releases the jib sheet from the jam cleat in one hand and picks up the new jib sheet in the other. The crew then replies ‘all clear’.

The helmsman must not proceed without this return communication from the crew.

The helm then pulls the mainsheet in by a couple of metres to restrict the travel of the boom and, keeping the tiller straight, rolls the tiller extension over the top of the tiller so the tip points towards the boom.

5 After pulling mainsheet in slightly, helm rolls tiller extension to point towards boom

6 Helmsman double-checks the turning area for hazards and rolls tiller extension towards the boom

7 It is important to keep the tiller straight at all times to prevent the boat from turning before you want it to

He moves his weight close to the centreline of the boat, leading with his back foot first. This will ensure that he is facing in the right direction during the turn.

8 Move to the centreline of the boat and keep the tiller straight

Next, he shouts ‘gybe oh’, at which point both he and the crew should duck. The helm then gently pushes the tiller away from the boom and the boat turns immediately.

He must not push the tiller hard across as this can make the turn too fast. It is best not to push the tiller more than 45 degrees for a controlled turn.

The helm grabs hold of the mainsheet falls and when these feel light he pulls the boom across.

9 Gently push the tiller away from the boom to start the turn

10 Avoid excessive tiller movement

11 When mainsheet falls feel light, the helmsman pulls them across

Both helm and crew keep their heads well out of the way of the rapidly moving boom and move across to the other side quickly to balance the boat.

Once the boom has settled, the helm immediately straightens the tiller to stop the boat turning any further and sits down as far forward as he can. Next, swap hands as described in the single person section in this chapter.

12 As the mainsheet falls feel light yank hard to force the boom over in a controlled manner

13 Ducking under the moving boom

14 Both helm and crew duck under moving boom and helmsman straightens tiller immediately the boom has settled

15 Helmsman sits down and prepares to swap hands

16 Release the mainsheet to allow the boom to move out and sail away

17 Not moving quickly enough can result in a capsize

18 Don’t forget to duck

Common mistakes

- Not being on a training run to start the gybe. This means it is harder to identify the point when the boom is ready to flick across to the other side of the boat.

- Pushing the tiller towards the boom. This will make the boat tack. In order to gybe, you must pull the tiller away from the boom.

- Not pulling in a couple of metres of mainsheet before the gybe. This will make the boom flick across wildly and could capsize the boat.

- Not moving your weight quickly enough to balance the boat once the boom flicks across. This also may capsize you.

- Not straightening the tiller immediately after the boom has gone across. You may end up sailing in a circle.

- Straightening the tiller before the boom has flicked across. You are likely to be on a dead run point of sailing and an accidental gybe could happen, again possibly causing the boat to capsize. Also, you will not have completed the manoeuvre.

- On a Laser, forgetting to pull the mainsheet in quickly as the boom is moving across. This will result in the mainsheet catching on the back of the boat and you will be unable to control the sail. If windy, you are likely to capsize.

- Failing to duck. The boom can travel a long way from side to side, and can do so very quickly. This can cause a serious head injury if you get caught in the way.

Next steps

Practise gybing as often as you can. Remember that the stronger the wind, the faster and potentially more hazardous this manoeuvre can be.

You can even practise on dry land first. With the boat on its trolley, support the stern of the boat with some old tyres. There is no need to hoist the sails, simply tie the boom up using the main halyard or another suitable rope from the outer end to the mast. Ask a friend to mimic the wind by pushing and pulling the boom across, whilst you do the manoeuvres in the boat.

For your first time out, avoid gybing in strong winds as it is likely the boat will capsize. If you are concerned about the wind strength and you need to get to a direction on the opposite downwind point of sailing, you can always tack round rather than gybe (see tacking chapter on page 183). This takes the boat the long way round, but will avoid an unwelcome capsize.

Practise ashore with a land drill

Key learning points

- A gybe is the manoeuvre to turn the boat when the boat is on a downwind point of sailing.

- You should start on a training run with the boom almost 90 degrees out and the centreboard three-quarters up.

- Only gybe if the area is safe and clear.

- To reduce the travel the boom makes, pull the mainsail in a little before you start.

- As the boat turns, when the weight in the mainsheet feels light, pull the boom over to help maintain control.

- Straighten the tiller immediately the boom has gone across.

- Balance the boat quickly.

- Do not forget to duck.

ASYMMETRIC SPINNAKER

A spinnaker is a lightweight sail that can dramatically increase your speed and fun afloat

Go online for a video demonstration: www.wileynautical.com/learntosail

The spinnaker is a large sail made of lightweight sail cloth and is used on a downwind point of sailing. Generally only used on two person boats, it will add a whole new dimension of fun to your sailing. In this chapter you will learn how to rig and use an asymmetric spinnaker.

The spinnaker is a third sail

The asymmetric spinnaker is flown from a bowsprit which on many boats extends and retracts automatically when the sail is hoisted and lowered.

The spinnaker can only be used on downwind points of sailing

Asymmetric spinnakers have now all but superseded conventional spinnakers in modern boat design and are widely used on dinghies, keel boats and modern yachts.

The spinnaker can only be used when the boat is on a beam reach, broad reach or training run.

Spinnaker sailing in light winds

It cannot be used on a close-hauled or close reach point of sailing.

Sail is launched from a chute

Contrary to the information on centreboard position given in the points of sail chapter on page 95, when sailing with an asymmetric spinnaker it is normal to leave the centreboard fully down at all times. The reason for this is that the increase of speed that the sail will introduce will push what is called the apparent wind more towards the bow. Apparent wind is the combination of true wind direction and forward speed of the boat. Although you are actually sailing in a direction away from or across the wind, the apparent wind will trick the boat into behaving as though it were on a close reach or even close-hauled point of sailing, where the centreboard should be fully lowered.

In strong winds the speed of the boat is dramatically increased

Boat planing under spinnaker

Spinnaker can only be used when the boat is on a beam reach, broad reach or training run

Spinnaker cannot be used on close-hauled or close reach points of sailing

Rigging the sail

It is your choice as to whether you rig the spinnaker before or after the jib, but to make it clearer in the pictures we have opted to rig the spinnaker first.

Like the other sails, the spinnaker has three corners called the head, the tack and the clew and it is hoisted using the spinnaker halyard.

Firstly, pick up the end of the spinnaker halyard and pull it off to one side of the boat. Look up to make sure it is not tangled around the other rigging.

1 Spinnaker has three corners

2 The head is the top of the sail

3 The tack attaches to the bowsprit

4 The clew of the sail is connected to the control sheets

5 Attach the head to the halyard with a bowline knot

Next, attach the head of the sail to the end of the halyard using a bowline knot. The bowline is the best knot to use as it works well under load and can be untied easily afterwards. To learn how to tie a bowline, see page 31.

You then run your hands along the leading edge, or luff, of the sail until you find the next corner of the sail, called the tack, which is usually marked.

6 Run hands along edge of sail to make sure sail is not tangled

7 Locate tack of the sail

8 Attach the tack to the bowsprit with bowline knot

9 Pass retrieval line through first downhaul patch on the sail

10 Locate second downhaul patch

Tie this corner of the sail to the bowsprit, again preferably using a bowline knot.

11 Tie the end of the retrieval line to the second patch using a bowline knot

The sail is lowered with a retrieval line. This is in fact the tail end of the spinnaker halyard and it emerges from the spinnaker chute. Pass the end of this line through the lower and first of two retrieval patches on the sail. These are strengthened circular patches on the sail.

Pull more of the retrieval line through and finally tie it to the second patch on the spinnaker, again using a bowline knot.

12 Hoist sail ashore to check for tangles

13 Pass one control sheet around forestay (or jib if rigged)

TOP TIP

When attaching the retrieval line, it is a good idea to part raise the spinnaker. This will make it easier to tie the line to the sail.

Next, you should fully hoist the sail to check nothing is tangled. Position the boat so the bow is pointing away from the wind, and hoist the sail, being careful to make sure that it doesn’t get caught on the trolley.

If it is windy, beware that the wind could catch the sail and blow the boat off the trolley, causing some damage.

14 Pass control sheet through fairlead on deck

When the sail is hoisted, the next step is to rig the remaining control sheets. Pass one of these sheets around the front of the forestay and thread it through the control fairlead on the deck, which should be near the wire shrouds at the side of the boat.

Tie a figure-of-eight knot in the end of the sheet (see page 28) to prevent it running free. Next, rig the remaining sheet in the same way and tie both ends of the spinnaker sheets together as this makes things easier when sailing.

15 Repeat on other side and tie both control sheets together with an additional reef knot

With the ropes all connected correctly you should then pull the sail into the spinnaker chute. Release the halyard and pull on the retrieval line. It is important to keep the halyard under slight pressure to stop the sail from falling on the ground or getting caught on the trolley

You then rig the jib, as described in the rigging chapter on page 63. Once the jib is rigged, you may choose to move the forestay out of the way by tying this back to the mast. The forestay is the wire rigging that stops the mast from falling backwards when the sails are lowered. With the jib rigged, the forestay is redundant. By moving the forestay, you alleviate the risk of the sail snagging and tearing on the bare wire, and the furling action of the jib is also made easier if the forestay is out of the way.

16 Retract the sail into the chute

Simply untie the forestay from the bow of the boat and secure it at the mast to stop it flying free. However, if you do this you MUST remember to reconnect the forestay before you lower the jib at the end of your sailing session, otherwise the mast will fall down!

17 Rig jib and remove forestay

How to launch the sail

Once afloat, the first point to understand is when you can actually hoist the sail. As mentioned, this is best done on a training run. Remember that you cannot launch the sail when on a close-hauled or even close reach point of sailing. The sail simply flaps like a flag and will not work.

1 Launch the sail from a training run

Teamwork is crucial. Working together, the helmsman and crew balance the boat to keep it flat. The crew then pulls the spinnaker up using the halyard.

2 Crew pulls the halyard to hoist the sail

3 Sail emerges from chute. Bowsprit extends automatically

This may feel tight because pulling the sail up also extends the bowsprit. Watch out here as the sail will suddenly pull free from the spinnaker chute, so make sure the crew is well balanced or even seated to do this.

4 Sail pops free from the chute

The crew then locks the spinnaker halyard in the jam cleat, which is usually located on the floor of the boat near the foot of the mast. With the sail fully hoisted, the crew moves to pick up the leeward control sheet. This is the one on the same side as the boom. The spinnaker sheet is the control that is used to set the sail in the optimum position. To find this point the crew releases the sheet a few inches at a time until the luff just starts to flicker. When this happens, the crew then pulls the sheet back to the point where the sail stops flapping.

5 Crew locks halyard in cleat

6 Crew picks up control sheet

7 Check the sail is fully hoisted

TOP TIP

Look above to check the sail is fully hoisted. When the sail fills with wind it can be hard to pull up and you may be misled into thinking that the sail is fully hoisted. If it is not properly hoisted, the sail is difficult to control.

If the sheet is eased too much, the whole sail will start to flap.

The crew adjusts the spinnaker sheet constantly and when the luff flutters, he pulls the sheet in once more.

8 Control sheets are used to adjust the sail. The tension here is correct

9 Crew eases sheet until leading edge flicks

10 If the sheet is released too far the sail will flap

11 Spinnaker sheet released until luff of sail flickers

12 Spinnaker sheet is tightened slightly to retain the sail shape

13 Crew looks at leading edge of the sail at all times

14 Crew adjusting sheets

TOP TIP

Always wear gloves when using the spinnaker. If not there is a high risk of friction burns from the pressure of the rope either sliding through your hands or simply by holding tight.

15 A well adjusted spinnaker can dramatically increase your boat speed

How to gybe with a spinnaker

Sooner or later you are going to have to gybe, and in this chapter we are assuming that you have read and understood the chapter on gybing (see page 213).

1 Boat approaching gybe

During the gybe, the actions undertaken by the helm are pretty much the same. The crew, however, has more to do. To start with, practise your gybing in light winds when things happen slowly.

Establish the boat on a broad reach or training run.

Check the area is clear and shout ‘standby to gybe’. The crew in turn double checks the area and picks up the new spinnaker sheet, releasing the jib sheet and replying ‘all clear’.

2 Boat bears away

3 Helm and crew prepare for gybe

4 Boat approaching gybe

You then initiate the turn and control the point when the boom flicks across by pulling on the mainsheet falls when the weight of the mainsheet feels light.

As the boom moves over, both of you must DUCK and get ready to move your weight quickly to the other side to balance the boat. The crew starts to pull the spinnaker across onto the new side with the new spinnaker sheet.

5 Helm checks gybe area is clear

6 Helm positioned in the centre of the boat ready to start the turn

7 Crew picks up new spinnaker sheet and helm pulls the mainsheet falls

8 Helm initiates gybe as crew pulls spinnaker across

9 Boom moves across; helm and crew balance boat

As soon as the spinnaker is fully out on the other side, the crew looks at the luff of the sail and adjusts the sheet to find the point where the luff starts to curl. Finally the crew pulls in and cleats the jib sheet to stop the jib from flapping.

10 Boom flicks across the boat

11 Crew pulls spinnaker across

12 Helmsman and crew may need to move their position to balance the boat

13 Crew adjusts jib on new side and maintains attention on the spinnaker

14 Boat sails on new gybe

Lowering the sail

When you are ready to lower the sail, turn the boat back onto a training run.

This will put most of the spinnaker behind the mainsail, which will dramatically reduce the force of the wind in the sail. The crew passes the spinnaker sheet to you so that you can keep the sail under control.

1 Before dropping the spinnaker, turn the boat onto a training run. The crew passes you the spinnaker sheet

The crew then releases the spinnaker halyard and pulls on the retrieval line to retrieve the sail. It is important to maintain slight tension in the halyard to prevent the sail from falling in the water and the boat running over it. On most boat designs nowadays, the bowsprit is automatically retracted when the sail is lowered.

2 Crew releases spinnaker halyard

3 Crew prepares to lower the spinnaker

4 Halyard being released

5 Crew pulls on retrieval line

6 Spinnaker and bowsprit are retracted simultaneously

What to do when it is windy

When the wind increases, it is highly likely that the boat will plane. This happens when a gust of wind hits the boat and the increase in power lifts the bow clear of the water. The boat skims along the surface with just the rear most section of the hull in contact with the water.

1 Hoist the sail quickly

Travelling at speed calls for careful concentration and good team work. Good balance is also critical. You must keep the boat flat and be prepared to move your weight extremely quickly around the boat as required.

2 Boat starting to plane

Dealing with gusts of wind

A good skill to develop is how to spot a gust of wind and what to do when it hits the boat. It is better to be prepared for this rather than feel the panic that sets in if you get caught out.

Gusts appear as darker patches on the surface of the water. When you see one approaching the boat, be prepared to bear away from the wind just a little.

3 Bow lifts clear of the water and speed increases

At the same time the crew eases the spinnaker sheet slightly, looking for the point where the luff just starts to flicker.

Continue in this direction until you feel the gust passing. Once it has passed you and the boat starts to slow, luff up slightly to increase the airflow across the spinnaker again.

4 Lean or move backwards slightly to promote planing

5 When gust hits, bear away slightly

6 Continue on same course until gust passes

7 When gust passes, luff up into wind again

8 Normal gybe routine applies in the wind

Repeat this process as and when further gusts hit you. This combination of bearing away from the wind when the gust hits and luffing up when it has passed is the best practice. Done successfully, you should avoid capsizing and get the best out of the wind.

Gybing on a windy day

In time, speed will become your friend and you will learn to gybe when travelling fast as the load on the rig is reduced due to the boat’s forward motion. However, to begin with gybing can be extremely daunting because it all happens incredibly quickly. So until you are confident, it is a good idea to let any gusts of wind pass you by before attempting to gybe.

The techniques used by the helm and crew are the same as previously described on page 244, but in windy conditions the boom will fly across the boat very speedily indeed.

9 But things happen much faster

10 Be prepared to balance the boat extremely quickly

Capsizing with a spinnaker

It is a certainty that you will capsize at some point with your spinnaker up. No matter how experienced you become, the extra power of the sail will lead to inevitable capsizes.

1 Capsize is common with the spinnaker

In this chapter we assume you have already read the capsize chapter on page 199. The only difference here is what you do with the extra sail.

As with a normal capsize, the heavier person will swim around to the centreboard, leaving the lighter person inside the cockpit. If the crew is the lighter person, then he releases the spinnaker halyard and simply pulls the sail back inside its launching chute with the retrieval line.

2 Spinnaker should be lowered before the boat is pulled upright

This makes things much easier when pulling the boat back up and reduces the chance of capsizing the boat for a second time.

Once the sail is safely lowered and put away, the conventional capsize procedure then applies.

3 Heavier person on the centreboard with lighter person lowering the sail

4 When the sail is lowered and stowed away, the normal capsize procedure applies

Common mistakes

Most of the mistakes when dealing with a spinnaker will probably result in the boat capsizing!

- Not rigging the sail correctly will lead to the sail becoming tangled when hoisted or rigged upside down.

- Not hoisting the sail from a training run. This could result in the sail filling with wind before you are ready and causing the boat to capsize.

- Not bearing away from the wind when a gust hits could capsize you.

- Not moving your weight across to balance the boat during a gybe will lead to capsizing.

- Not keeping the halyard slightly tensioned when lowering the sail will result in the sail being run over by the boat.

Spinnaker rigged upside down

Key learning points

- The spinnaker is a large sail that can only be used when the boat is on a beam reach, broad reach or training run.

- The spinnaker cannot be used on a close-hauled or close reach point of sailing.

- Leave the centreboard fully down.

- When rigging, ensure all the control sheets are outside any other rigging lines, including the retrieval line.

- Use a bowline knot to secure the halyard.

- Run your hands along the leading edge of the sail when rigging to make sure it is not tangled.

- Tie the ends of the sheets together to allow better control when gybing.

- If your forestay is removable, it is advisable to relocate this to the mast to prevent the wire snagging the sail. Remember though to reconnect the forestay before lowering the jib at the end of your sail.

- The sail is launched from a chute at the bow of the boat and is hoisted with its own halyard.

- Hoist the sail on a training run point of sailing, and then adjust your point of sailing to get where you want to go.

- The crew is responsible for managing the spinnaker and he should release and tighten the spinnaker control sheets to find the point where the edge of the sail starts to curl. This is the most efficient setting for the sail.

- Turn the boat away from the wind when a gust hits and then turn back when it has passed.

- During the gybe the crew pulls the spinnaker across.

- To drop the spinnaker turn the boat back onto a training run.

Glossary

Aft At the back of the boat

Astern Behind the boat

Batten Lightweight strip inserted into sail to help hold its shape

Beam reach A point of sailing where the boat is sailing at 90 degrees to the wind

Bearing away To alter course by turning the boat away from the wind

Beating Sailing towards the wind in a series of tacks

Boom A horizontal spar attached to the mast that supports the mainsail

Bow The forward end of a boat

Bowsprit A spar that extends from the bow to support the asymmetric spinnaker

Broad reach A point of sailing where the boat is pointing away from the wind at an angle of approx 135 degrees to the wind

Buoyancy tanks Sealed tanks in the hull of dinghies that contain buoyancy to support the boat

Burgee Small flag at the mast head which is used to indicate wind direction

Centreboard A large plate that pivots and retracts inside the boat, used to prevent sideways slip (called leeway) particularly when sailing close-hauled

Centreline The centre of the boat running from the stern to the bow

Cleat Fittings that come in a variety of shapes and sizes either on a boat or pontoon used to secure or hold fast a control line or mooring line

Clew The lower aft corner of a sail

Close-hauled The point of sailing required to sail as close as possible to the wind. This is the edge of the no go zone

Close reach Point of sailing where the boat is approximately 60 degrees to the wind

Control line Piece of rope or cord used to control an individual part of the sail

Crew The crew is the person controlling the headsail on a two handed dinghy

Cross shore wind Wind that blows parallel to the beach or pontoon

Cunningham A control line used to tension the luff (leading edge) of the mainsail mainly used on windy days

Daggerboard Lifting blade that moves up and down through its case to prevent sideways slip (called leeway) particularly when sailing close-hauled

Dagger grip Term used to describe way that helmsman holds mainsheet and tiller extension

Dead run Point of sailing where the boat is sailing with the wind directly behind

Downhaul Control line used to either tension the leading edge or luff of the sail. Similar to a Cunningham

Drainage bungs Small close fitting plugs inserted into drainage ports on the buoyancy tanks

Fairlead A fixed and rigid fitting normally screwed to the hull that allows a control line to have its direction of travel altered

Fore Towards the front or bow of the boat

Forestay A wire rigging that supports the mast at the bow of the boat

Furl Roll up a sail

Gooseneck Universal joint that connects boom to mast

Gunwale The outer edge of the side of a boat

Gybe (gybing) To change course from one side of the wind to the other, sailing downwind

Halyard A line either made of rope or wire used to raise sails on a boat, for example ‘the main halyard’ is the line used to raise the mainsail

Head Top corner of any sail

Headsail (or jib) The front sail on a two handed dinghy controlled by the crew

Head to wind Position of the boat when the bow is pointing directly into the wind

Helm The rudder assembly

Helmsman/Helm Person steering the boat, applies to both male and female

Hove to Position where the boat is stopped with the jib or headsail backed and the mainsail flapping

Jam cleat A cleat which is designed to allow a rope to be fastened quickly

Jib (or headsail) The front sail on a two handed dinghy controlled by the crew

Jibsheet The control line used to pull the jib in or let it out

Kicking strap Light tackle angled from the boom to a lower part of the mast or some point on the floor of the boat to stop the boom from rising when the mainsheet is released

Lee The side facing away from the direction the wind is travelling

Leech Back edge of a sail

Lee shore Beach where wind is blowing directly onto it

Leeward The side of the boat or pontoon opposite to where the wind is blowing from

Luff The leading edge of a sail

Luff up (or luffing) To turn the boat from one point of sailing to another that is closer to the wind

Lying to Where the boat is lying on a beam reach point of sailing with the sails released and flapping and the centreboard half raised

Mainsail The main sail on a boat, the largest sail (except for the spinnaker) controlled by the helmsman

Mainsheet The line used to pull the mainsail in or let it out

Mainsheet falls Mainsheet pulley system

Mast A vertical spar or pole that holds the sails in position

Masthead The top of a mast

No go zone The area in which a boat won’t sail, 45 degrees either side of where the wind is blowing from

Offshore wind A wind blowing off the land

Onshore wind A wind blowing onto the land, often creates a lee shore

Outhaul A control line that is used to pull the clew of the sail towards the end of the boom

Painter A line attached to the bow of dinghies or other small boats for use in securing or mooring

Planing When a boat travels fast on a windy day the bow lifts out the water

Point of sailing Any direction of sailing

Pontoon A low flat floating platform

Port Side The left side of the boat when looking forwards

Port tack Any point of sailing with the wind on the left-hand side

Reaching Holding a course with the wind roughly abeam (on the side of the boat.) ie. sailing across the wind

Reef Reduce the area of a sail

Reefing An action that is designed to reduce the size of a sail during periods of strong wind, in order to improve the ship’s stability

Retrieval line Line used to retrieve or stow a sail

Rig The arrangement of all sails, spars and masts on a boat

Rigging The system of all ropes, lines and wires that support and control sails and mast on a boat. Also the process of attaching the sails to the boat

Rudder/rudder blade A flat, underwater blade that steers the boat

Running Point of sailing where the wind is behind the boat

Safety pin/clip Pin designed to secure a removable part of the boat’s fixtures or fittings

Shackle U shaped removable fixing

Sheet A control line used to trim sails

Shroud Wires supporting the mast on either side of the boat

Side tanks Generally the area that you sit on while sailing, usually the buoyancy tanks

Spinnaker A large, often colourful sail made of a lightweight cloth

Spinnaker chute Storage place for the spinnaker

Spreaders Horizontal brackets fitted to mast to support shrouds

Starboard side The right side of the boat when looking forwards

Starboard tack Any point of sailing with the wind on the right-hand side

Stern (or transom) The back of the boat

Stuck in irons A term used when the boat is stationary with the bow head to wind

Tack The manoeuvre used to alter direction by turning across the wind, the bow goes from one side of the no go zone to the other. Or the lower front corner of a sail

Telltales Strips of fabric attached to sails that are to indicate the wind and right trim

Thwart Seat running across a dinghy

Tiller Attachment to the rudder by which it is controlled

Tiller extension Connected to the tiller, held by helmsman

Toe straps Permanently fixed webbing straps to allow helm and crew to lean out

Training run Point of sailing where the boat is travelling at 150 degrees to the wind

Transom (or stern) The back end of the boat

Uphaul A control line used to raise something

Wearing round Manoeuvre used to avoid a gybe but continue sailing on a downwind point of sailing

Windward Towards the wind